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Old 05-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #21 (permalink)
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What's the stuff you guys call lacquer thinner ?
Got any other names for that ?

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Old 05-07-2012, 05:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My can of Lacquer Thinner contains "tolulene, methanol, xylene, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and butyl acetate or ethyl acetate." Usually, I expect some Acetone. Any such solvent MUST be dried with another towel before it can evaporate, since the industrial grades are contaminated with oil from previous use. Airplanes fell from the sky before we got religious about that.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks Bob.

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Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob View Post
My can of Lacquer Thinner contains "tolulene, methanol, xylene, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and butyl acetate or ethyl acetate." Usually, I expect some Acetone.
That's some names I can relate to
I wonder which one actually prepares the coroplast best.

I don't fancy toluene or xylene, and would rather not work with them.

Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is butanone - so essentially it's Acetone with an extra Carbon atom in the chain and similar properties.
Great glue for polystyrene.

MiBK is chemically related, with similar properties to MEK.
MEK and MiBK will also evaporate easily.


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Any such solvent MUST be dried with another towel before it can evaporate, since the industrial grades are contaminated with oil from previous use. Airplanes fell from the sky before we got religious about that.
How's that then ?

All these chemicals can be had as very high purity liquids.
Don't really know about the acetates, but the rest will evaporate easily and clean off most oily residues.

Maybe they used lower grade, contaminated base products in the mix you used, as it was just for thinner ?
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Pharmaceutical grades are pure, industrial grades are not. When they evaporate, they don't take anything with them, even your original contaminant. So, I usually use a paper towel that is solvent-wet under my fingers, and dry under my palm, so I'm giving the stuff no chance to evaporate. That technique really conserves on thinner and towels for a job like cleaning printing off of Coroplast, too.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:14 AM   #25 (permalink)
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MEK is nasty stuff.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:44 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Its pricy, but McMaster-Carr sells a 2 part epoxy adhesive designed to work with polypropylene (McMaster part # 7513A1).
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:14 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The best way I can think of for the coropllast keep a shape is to insert thick baling wire into the coreggations the wire would hold the bend then you could heat the plastic to remove its memory? I haven't tried it yet but I will in my bellypan when I get some time to make it...
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:21 PM   #28 (permalink)
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On page 7 of my thread I show how I did my kamback. I started by Attaching a center section 39" wide to my hatch with sheet metal screws. then bolting (again with sheet metal screws) Side pieces to the mid section and sealing it with duct tape.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...s-19724-7.html

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:21 AM   #29 (permalink)
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An 1/8" diameter rod (or slightly larger) will fit in the corrugation channels of 4mm Coroplast. That is what I've had in my wheel skirts for well over 3 years.

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