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Old 09-03-2008, 08:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Corplast glue?

What kind of glue or epoxy makes a strong, durable, permanent, weatherproof bond for Coroplast?

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Old 09-03-2008, 08:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Regular Silicon seal (not paintable) is probably the best, if you can afford the drying time. WEST epoxy is pretty good, especially if your Coroplast is fresh with lots of "static cling" left from the factory bond-enhancing treatment. Premium latex-based contact cement is very good, but may not endure freezing. A quick way to get a neat, even curved crease across the grain is to run a bead of hot glue to soften the polypropylene, and then make your fold, but hot glue is not much good on a hot, sunny day. Always be aware of sharp changes in flexibility, which is where cracks start, either in adhesives or materials.

See COROPLAST HPV BODY CONSTRUCTION
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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None are brilliant, but in my experience with it hot melt glue is probaly best on the proviso of using a very hot gun and using the nozzle to get some heat into the joning material first.
A normal ie. not very hot gun will not produce a lasting joint.
My experience is HPV based as well.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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As Coroplast is Polypropylene, a polyolefin, no glues are going to do well that work by chemical bond. Something with a mechanical tooth, such as hot glue into drilled holes, with partial melting of the Cloroplast (plastic brazing?) would be what I recommend.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Zip ties and a drill are your friends.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Zip ties and a drill are your friends.
I have to agree, Coroplast is incredibly tear resistant.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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True, most of my velo was cable ties and tape (brilliant strength), but the inner mud gaurds were hot glued only and they took a hell of a beating and never let go.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have had incredible luck with Gorilla Glue or it's opaque white counterpart, Sumo Glue. Good results require a fairly specific process, though. You will need something to punch many tiny holes in the surfaces of the Coro to be joined. I used a wallpaper scoring device. Then apply the glue to one surface, and use a spray bottle full of water to mist the other surface. Press together and hold with a clamp for an hour or so, overnight if you can stand it. I have several RC aircraft wings made this way. One of them survived a nose-in crash from around 200'. The wing separated on impact and was found several yards away. If done right, this method will work VERY well.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Forgot an important part of the process....probably the hardest part, as well. Pass the flame of a propane torch quickly over the surfaces to be joined. Just enough to kill the "shine". There are many theories as to why this is important, but I just know it works for me.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Use the KISS principle, rough sand abs,pvc, polypro etc with a 40 grit sand paper and select the adhesive of your choice.

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