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Old 04-06-2010, 10:37 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Did that... with my foot and a dead blow hammer.

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Old 04-06-2010, 01:48 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Penetrating oil and a short sharp shock. Or several. Dead blow won't cut the mustard. A steel hammer is your friend here.
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:05 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Eeesh, steel hammer on my steel rims... I don't like that idea so much.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:17 PM   #164 (permalink)
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You don't have to cold forge them.

Firm tapping should do the trick. It's the vibration that loosens the rust bond.

I think that driving with loose lug nuts would be more damaging.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:23 PM   #165 (permalink)
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I think that driving with loose lug nuts would be more damaging.
Seconded. Maybe a thin sheet of plywood between hammer and rim?
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:24 PM   #166 (permalink)
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If it's paint chipping you are worried about try tapping from behind.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:33 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Another approach:

Not very good for FE, but drive a little ways with your ebrake on and bolts snug but not tight. Heat differential will expand the drum faster than the rim, shearing the rust.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:32 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange4boy View Post
You don't have to cold forge them.
lol, I laughed out loud at that one.

I ended up trying out protoge's suggestion. I put a 2x4 up against the rim and wacked it with a small sledge. A couple of swings and it broke loose. Now I have all 4 Ecopias on, yay!
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:01 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Now I have all 4 Ecopias on, yay!
And you don't have tinnitus! yay!

I'm here all week! boo!
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:13 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Quote:
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..I ended up trying out protoge's suggestion..
Hammer n duct tape, baby! If it doesn't move, and it should, use the hammer!

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