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Old 02-21-2014, 12:12 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I don't want to mess with camber, just caster.

I'll ask the mechanics and have another look underneath my car.

Maybe I can adjust caster by moving the support mount that attaches to the lower ball joint. That will of course screw with toe.


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Old 02-21-2014, 01:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Sorry- "caster". Doesn't otherwise change my post.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Reference: ToyoDIY.com

Conceivably if I could move 90105-14081 away from the chassis of the car with the use of a spacer then I could move that entire arm away from the car and let it pivot on the point where bolt 90105-14084 pivots on. This is the only way I can see that I could adjust camber.

But it would require modification to the vehicle which is way above my head, I will pass it along to my local mechanic anyway and see what he says.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
Sorry- "caster". Doesn't otherwise change my post.
If you read my original post, I already did make a good attempt at trying to drive the car without power steering. And there is little to no effort involved when moving the steering wheel while the car is jacked up so why would fluid then affect driving ability when the car is lowered?

I learnt how to drive on a manual steering box installed in a 2 ton wagon, a Ford XF Falcon FYI, I'm not a weakling and can easily lift a lot of weight, this car however is so heavy on the steering that I can barely get out of my own street! and it only begins to be steerable once speed gets to an unacceptably high range of above 30km/h.

I have to almost break the soft steering wheel just manuvering it while at a complete stop.

So no, I do not see any rational reason behind going to the effort of cutting the steel lines on a car that is my only one and then looping things away from the valves of the power steering rack, because it is difficult to reverse.

Especially when all of the evidence supports the fact that it won't do diddly squat. We can argue who else is stronger for the rest of the day, but I'm no weakling, the car will become undrivable once I add more cargo to the back, I know this because I have tried it and it has made it worse.

Last edited by yoyoyoda; 02-21-2014 at 01:37 AM..
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It is common practice to loop lines to reduce effort when disabling power steering. Ask anybody.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:38 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
It is common practice to loop lines to reduce effort when disabling power steering. Ask anybody.
Yes, and in this case the caster is so excessive on my vehicle that even if I did that it wouldn't do anything.

It has 10 years of road tear on the springs and the car rides a lot lower than stock because of that, so I'm thinking that is what is causing excessive positive caster.

I'm convinced of this because it feels like I'm trying to lift the car whenver I steer..

I'm going to at some point be installing higher than stock springs later on, maybe that will pull caster back into somewhere normal.

Quote:
Excessive caster angle will make the steering heavier and less responsive, although, in racing, large caster angles are used to improve camber gain in cornering. Caster angles over 7 degrees with radial tires are common. Power steering is usually necessary to overcome the jacking effect from the high caster angle.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle

Last edited by yoyoyoda; 02-21-2014 at 01:49 AM..
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:48 AM   #17 (permalink)
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OK YES The problem is all caster! Fix it!
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Old 02-21-2014, 02:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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FOUND IT!!

This is what I need to adjust caster on the SXV20 Toyota Camry 2000:
Control ARM LOW Inner Rear Bush ADJ Caster Toyota Camry Avalon Nolathane 45371 | eBay



http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=45371

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