Do you use synthetic oil?

[whitevette]

Originally Posted by johnmyster

I've never been convinced that synthetics are any better.

I will, however, spend money on a better filter. Years ago, FRAM won acclaims for their filtration. However, I think their quality has gone down. The nicer FRAMs, Toyota, Mobil, Bosch , and Motorcraft (Ford) filters get my approval along with some others. I always open the box, and look for a "reverse flow seal" that is made of softer (red) rubber and a non-stamped top plate. The stamped plates always have buggers on the back of the holes that keep them from sealing well. I consider these backflow preventers to be critical in getting oil to your lifters and valvetrain quickly during startup. They help to prevent "drainback" when the engine is shut down. I like the grippy on the frams, but will only use their silver filter. Since I have a GM, that usually leaves me using Bosch, Silver Fram, or Mobil. Always liked the Motorcraft when I was a ford guy...

If you open the boxes in the store, you'll quickly see that it looks like only one or two companies out there make filters...

Synthetics....
"Better" for what? For how long? I'm with you , here. Good oil is good stuff.

I , too , had the same questions about oil filters. Many brands, many prices, can't see inside.... Fram seemed safe, so I went with this....
Then, I met Google! My whole world opened up! When I asked Google about oil filters, she led me to a guy who had the same questions I had...and he took the time to cut his many samples open...and check the paper elements for lots of things, checked construction, checked oil from each...and on and on. This guy was great! I'm so sorry the URL is gone in my disc crash... but Google knows.
Long story short...the absolute best in the (American) world is also the cheapest! He had no reason for this...but he wasn't playing favorites. The brand? Pur-o-Later ( "pure oil later") , made the same way since forever, same filter paper ( low micron), potted paper ends( not crushed like some), good, simple construction throughout, and great price! He sold me! Why should I pay more for less filter?? Incidentally, Fram wasn't so great. Surprising! AC was OK... But there're not cheap!
And, several companies make oil filters. The just take the same shape/form ( money talk$, $upplier$ listen).
Have a nice day!

[whitevette]

Originally Posted by johnmyster

I may even try 20W-50.

I used to be a 20-W-50 freak...then I got smart. Hot 50 wt is thin, cold 20 wt is like glue on crank-up. This is when your (cold) engine really needs oil protection ... visualize rings scrapping on cold steel walls. Cold oils are not gonna "sling" easily from spinning rod big ends.
Then, I spoke with a Pennzoil rep. Most of the wear occurs cold. The oil is still drained down from the overnight sit... it started this sit duration hot ( engine soak) , so the oil was super hot ( and thin) and drained down from
everywhere ( except from the very close rod & main clearances).
You come out in the (cool?cold?) AM, turn the key, and wham! Things start happening. No oil things. Bad.... 20-W-50 bad. Like I said...I USED to be....

[johnmyster]

Originally Posted by whitevette

I used to be a 20-W-50 freak...then I got smart. Hot 50 wt is thin, cold 20 wt is like glue on crank-up. This is when your (cold) engine really needs oil protection ... visualize rings scrapping on cold steel walls. Cold oils are not gonna "sling" easily from spinning rod big ends.
Then, I spoke with a Pennzoil rep. Most of the wear occurs cold. The oil is still drained down from the overnight sit... it started this sit duration hot ( engine soak) , so the oil was super hot ( and thin) and drained down from
everywhere ( except from the very close rod & main clearances).
You come out in the (cool?cold?) AM, turn the key, and wham! Things start happening. No oil things. Bad.... 20-W-50 bad. Like I said...I USED to be....

I'm of the opposite school of thought. A thin oil may "pump up" faster, but I don't think it'll hold as good of pressure when cold. Being a truck driver, sometimes my motor gets beat on pretty hard when cold, hot, whatever.

And I'm not convinced a thin oil will pump up measureably faster than a thick one. My oil pump is a positive displacement pump. It's spun by the engine. It's going to move the oil. Non-negotiable.

And by cold starts, I mean 40 or 50 F block temperatures. Rarely, somewhere in the ballpark of 30. That, to me, is a cold start. 20wt is still plenty pumpable at 30 F.

But you're right. Based on my oil pressure gauge observations, 20w-40 or even straight 30 wt may be better.

[Frank Lee]

That changing the oil filter twice as often as the oil seems bass-ackwards to me. For one thing, I even have an owner's manual that specifies changing the filter every other oil change! For another, really, what do you think you're draining out? Is there so much gook in there that the filter media is at capacity??? I doubt it! What is the nature and source of all this gook? Hell, my old V-dubs didn't even have filters!

[jamesqf]

Originally Posted by IndyIan

I think most guys changing their own oil stay away from 0W20, it has the rep of being factory oil to increase FE while sacrificing engine longevity.

I figure the engineers who designed the Insight engine ought to know what it's designed for. All the rest of their engineering, including unconventional things like lean burn, seem to work just fine. And with 130K miles on the engine, at least 80K using the 0w-20, there's still not a drop of oil leaking anywhere.

...now if they had 0W40 then I'm more interested.

They do. Check the shelves at your local WalMart :-)

[metroschultz]

Frank,
I don't have to change the filter. I could run 10k on the oil and filter and change them both at once. I came from the old, old school, where more often is better than the book calls for.

I got sold on synthetic oil after I had a car with noisy lifters. They wouldn't clean up no matter what ( engine flush, marvel mystery oil, etc ad nauseum).
Our Havoline Oil rep "Promised" me that their line of synthetics would quiet it right down. And they did.

I am at 10k oil change for my wifes car. After some oil analysis I learned that at 10k she still has plenty of lubricity in the oil and viscosity hasn't broken down measurably and there is no particulate matter and so on.
I change the filter, because I want to and it makes Me feel better. (kind of similar to Dos Equis)
(I sometimes still cringe when I think of a 10k oil change)
A filter is $3 and 5qt of synthetic is $30
I am still cheap.
I didn't mean to get so wordy but felt this info would be useful.
Schultz

[Frank Lee]

I figgered as much. That's the same reason guys change oil every 2500 or 3000 miles- the engines sure don't need it.

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted by jamesqf

I figure the engineers who designed the Insight engine ought to know what it's designed for. All the rest of their engineering, including unconventional things like lean burn, seem to work just fine. And with 130K miles on the engine, at least 80K using the 0w-20, there's still not a drop of oil leaking anywhere.



They do. Check the shelves at your local WalMart :-)

I think the bad reputation comes from the F150 owners who have 0W20 recommended by Ford. 20 weight oil starts to sound like a bad idea when your engine has been outputting 150hp for the last 10 minutes pulling 12,000lbs up a 8% grade... Worst case scenario for sure but its hard to change your oil when you're half way up...
Most of the time engineers get trumped by the bean counters so I don't always think what is recommended is always best. It is a good place to start though for sure.
If I were you I'd keep using the 0W20 unless you get a 28ft trailer

[bryn]

change my what??? oil??? i've never owned a car long enough to bother

[jamesqf]

Originally Posted by metroschultz

(I sometimes still cringe when I think of a 10k oil change)
A filter is $3 and 5qt of synthetic is $30
I am still cheap.

I understand. It's a lot more palatable when an oil change is two quarts and a bit :-)