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Old 06-20-2009, 12:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I was not referring to coasting in neutral, only to having the converter unlocked and allowing the motor RPMs to drop with the resulting reduction in fuel feed to the motor. I am not a fan of coasting in neutral, I think it can increase reaction time in some emergency situatons and poses a safety hazard.

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Old 06-20-2009, 08:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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why would it ruin your reaction time? The average driver's first reaction is to hit the brakes and steer, not hit the gas or gear down.

(I know, you're not average... no one is.)

No offense, but I think the "neutral isn't safe because you can't accelerate on demand" argument is the most bogus thing I've ever heard. I've been in plenty of dangerous situations to know that even if you try to think about it, you'll almost definitely hit the brakes and/or steer first.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I agree that the first (and correct) impulse would be to steer and brake (Mine too) My thought is if the next need turns out to be acceleration, in the heat of the emergency with the adrenaline flowing, the next impulse will be to hit the throttle and THEN to remember you are in neutral and shift with your foot on the gas, not a smart move.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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1 million to 1 chance that you'll ever need to accelerate from an accident (that you didn't cause, and you're not trying to run from).

Horsepower will inevitably get you into more trouble than it will ever get you out of.

How do you think people get away with not dying when they're driving those 30 HP sub-sub-sub compact clown cars? They're certainly not trying to accelerate, that's for sure! :P

If you don't like to coast in neutral, that's your own thing, I just don't see anything dangerous about it. (Even though it's illegal in most states, AFAIK).
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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OK I guess we can agree to disagree on that subject
As to the original subject I think your suggestion of a manual lock-up is probably the way to go. I am getting a dealer service manual for the van and that should tell me a lot more than my Haynes does about how it works. On a slightly different subject, have you had any experience with Synthetic ATF-4? My van is approaching 100K and will be due for fresh transmission fluid by fall.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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On a lighter note, just get the stuff from Wally World. ATF+4 is ATF+4 is ATF+4, regardless of who's name is on the bottle. It's not made any cheaper or easier, it's not a byproduct, it's not "crap oil" like some would say, it's just a cheaper bottle of OEM Mopar-approved ATF+4. Save yourself some money, get it from Wally World. (SuperTech brand).

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Manufacturers can make ATF+4 fluids, but to use the trademarked ATF+4 name in their compatibility list, they must have their fluids tested and licensed by Chrysler engineers, and must use Lubrizol in their formulations. Licensed fluids are periodically sampled from stores to assure quality.
Taken from Allpar.com:Chrysler transmission fluids: 7176, ATF+3, ATF+4

More information on Base oil grouping: Amsoil - Motor Oil Base Stock Groups
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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ATF+4 (legally licensed) uses a Group 3 base oil, which, by legal definition, is a base oil used in full- and part-synthetic oils.

By definition, legally licensed ATF+4 is synthetic. Don't waste your money on the Mobil1 or Pennzoil version of ATF+4, it's the same stuff.

SuperTech ATF+4 is legally licensed, and has passed Chrysler's quality testing to assure that it meets the Type9602 Testing Requirements.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Licensed ATF+4 Brands

Third column, 6th listing down.

If it's not in that list, don't use it.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
When you're coasting in neutral, the engine is still running. Since the pump is driven off the engine's output (transmission input shaft), the pump is still being driven as long as the engine is turning. Putting the transmission in neutral does nothing more than bypass the valve that allows fluid pressure to build up enough to engage the clutches in the gear set, but the fluid is still flowing very much so.
very interesting and good to know!
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Does this mean that if you coast with the motor off that the transmission is then in danger of running dry?

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