08-30-2015, 12:54 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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The brake pedal is evil
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Arizona
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About a year later, how is this fix fairing?
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08-30-2015, 05:56 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: South Carolina
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Not so good!
Unfortunately, I never got around to actually protecting the finish, so it oxidized again in ten months of Florida weather.
Next time I'll give it the real treatment, but for a quick wipe-on wipe-off fix, it lasted three or four months without yellowing at all.
When I use the Blue stuff with my buffer on my cordless drill and follow up with wax, that lasts for over a year.
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08-31-2015, 03:43 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Not banned yet
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas Coast, close to Houston
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Blue - '03 Chevy S-10, LS
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I sprayed bug spray on my truck lenses once. didn't wipe it off. looked terrible when the plastic melted. nothing worked after that. had to replace them.
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2003 S-10, 2.2L, 5 speed, ext cab long bed.
So far: DRL delete, remove bed mount toolbox.
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09-09-2015, 06:26 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: New Zealand
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SWDEUX - '91 Toyota MR2 G-Limited
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The results look good. Most of the products you can't get outside of USA/CAN I believe, but what I plan on doing is wet sanding mine and then buffing with polish (once I get a dual action buffer). It will work like this one in the respect that it'll remove all the oxidization and make the plastic taillights/headlights look brand new.
I find that cars with yellowed plastic just look much much older than ones without. Fortunately for mine, I've got glass headlights. Only thing I've got to worry about is faded black trim 
There are, however, off-the-shelf headlight restoration kits for sale. |
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09-09-2015, 06:30 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoWalker
Join Date: Dec 2012
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The yellow is in the old UV protection layer, right?
You just need to get rid of that and get a fresh layer on.
Anything that removes the layer without damaging the plastic underneath should work.
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2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
  lifetime FE over 0.2 Gigameter or 0.13 Megamile.
For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
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09-09-2015, 11:28 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Administrator
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The yellow us UV damaged plastic. You need to remove that layer to clear them up. Then, you really should add a layer of UV resistant coating on top of it to lengthen the amount of time until it yellows again.
Here is my write up on my headlight restoration. Its holding up pretty well.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-uv-30237.html |
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09-09-2015, 01:46 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Not banned yet
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas Coast, close to Houston
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Blue - '03 Chevy S-10, LS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
The yellow us UV damaged plastic. You need to remove that layer to clear them up. Then, you really should add a layer of UV resistant coating on top of it to lengthen the amount of time until it yellows again.
Here is my write up on my headlight restoration. Its holding up pretty well.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-uv-30237.html |
you said it better than me. there is no UV coating from the factory.
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2003 S-10, 2.2L, 5 speed, ext cab long bed.
So far: DRL delete, remove bed mount toolbox.
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09-09-2015, 02:44 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Master EcoWalker
Join Date: Dec 2012
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In that case, shouldn't we put on a layer of UV protection film ahead of any damage to our new(ish) headlights?
__________________
2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
lifetime FE over 0.2 Gigameter or 0.13 Megamile.
For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
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