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Old 11-02-2016, 09:16 AM   #101 (permalink)
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haha I actually used biltema oil when I bought the car, but now I used champion. the gearbox has biltema gl-4 mineral stuff.

The list I gave was a mixed set of Castrol, mobil, and shell oils.

No oil consumed at 6.000 miles

that's why I am interested in thinner oil. But I wonder how much the oil pressure is affected by it?.

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Old 11-02-2016, 10:47 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingie View Post
The list I gave was a mixed set of Castrol, mobil, and shell oils.
It matches biltemas range . . . perhaps there is a conspiracy

The thinner oil may very well lower the oil pressure, but it will circulate around the engine better and be easier to pump.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:14 PM   #103 (permalink)
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It is also possible that biltema just happens to produce this stuff because they are very common oils.

I'll settle for 0w-30 or 0w-40 (not cheapest, not the most expensive),

the gearbox is a question yet.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:58 PM   #104 (permalink)
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...or does anyone have experience of grille blocks with thinner oil?

and if EOC later, how 'bout that?

no wonder engine oil is a wide branch in the car industry
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:16 AM   #105 (permalink)
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With an engine block the oil should get to it's warm viscosity sooner.

With living in a colder climate the grill block will also allow the engine to run closer to it's normal temperature, last year without a grill block my car was always running a little cold, hopefully this year with a grill block it will run in within normal.

One thing that you should watch is that you spread whatever air is coming in over the radiator so that you dont create cold spots.

I have heard of people having leaks if going from a mineral oil to synthetic, especially in older gearboxes, as the seals might have been held together by the older mineral oil/dirt, which is cleaned away by the new synthetic oil. If it is a young gearbox or a recently refurbished gearbox you should be ok. Also some of the older types of seals dont like the newer synthetic oils.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:10 AM   #106 (permalink)
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point taken.

The gearbox has a dip stick too

but i'll check if it's synthetic or mineral thats recommended for the 'Box
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:15 AM   #107 (permalink)
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the 40 is probably better than 30 for the engine if i Engine Off-Coast as it's thicker viscosity (sticks to the parts better?), and thus doesn't "dry" the engine.
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Old 11-04-2016, 10:20 AM   #108 (permalink)
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wonder how i'd make a engine kill switch.

The injector system is [BOSCH] MP7.

Interrupt the camshaft sensor maybe or injectors?
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:56 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Installed a fuel pump override switch (used test connectors)

the fuel pump relay jams in open-position in cold weather so this is pretty much a ghetto-fix.

I get the fuel system properly pressurized before starting.


This means a whole lot less cranking when starting and in a stop-and-go traffic.


But I can turn off the switch as the car warms up, in case of an accident the original collision-cutoff switch works incase something happens.
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:25 PM   #110 (permalink)
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An Ethanol conversion unit would cost 200euros...

It would pay for itself in a year if I drive more than 20.000kms a year and the mileage is only hurt by a promised 28%

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