Electric Assist Subaru?

[pr8head]

Hello, I read though the E-charger post and I love the idea. I have a 92 Subaru Loyale and have an idea along the same line. I took out the AC compressor when I first got the car. So I have a 4" open hole where I wondered if a small DC motor could be mounted to run the PS pump, water pump, and alternator. I figure a constant speed motor would work fine but not sure what RPM it would need. Any ideas on this? Would it be worthwhile? Could the pulley on the crank be removed? Thanks for any input!

[dennyt]

Another Loyale! I like what you've done with the A/C. I pulled my Power Steering pump (and drained the lines & plugged them), but kept the A/C intact. The steering feels much better at speed, and is manageable with one hand in the parking lot.

I don't think you will gain much from using an electric motor to run the power steering, unless you have some variable speed logic so you're not running it all the time.

The alternator is only ~60% efficient at turning crank energy into electricity. So using an electric motor to run the alternator to power the electric motor... doesn't work. You have to take crank energy to run the alternator.

Over the winter I only ran the front belt, to the crank & water pump & alternator, and it worked fine. I think you can ditch your rear belt & save more drag.

Let me know if you have any questions about your Loyale! If your idle is too high you can put a "restrictor plate" in the idle air control valve, this really helps.

[pr8head]

I love my old sub! I had to put two belts last winter to run the PS pump or it squeled like a pig. But if I can remove the pump that would be even better.

My idle has been a royal pain in the arse! I've got it somewhat tamed but it has been a fight. When I bought the car it idled at about 500 rpm and would not keep alt charging that slow. So I tried to speed it up to about 800 rpm. The factory adjustment screw had (and still has) no effect on the idle speed. Then (BAD IDEA AHEAD) I saw the screw on the throttle rod and adjusted it . It worked great for about a week and then went south. Thats when I found out thats the NEVER TOUCH screw (TO LATE). I bought a throttle body from the junkyard that nobody had touch the evil screw on and rebuilt it. That did help after some tweaking but was not a cure. My mileage went from an average 180 miles at half a tank to 120 miles. Also my egr soleniod is bad and I can't get rid of it code 34. I tried the resistor idea and it did nothing so I bought a new dead soleniod which only helped the weight of my wallet lol.

Sorry if I strayed off subject to far.

[dennyt]

Have you visited the USMB forum? They're a good resource for old Subarus.

I fixed my code 34 with electrical tape over the CEL

Try cleaning & testing your IAC valve, if it is dead or stuck closed that will keep the idle low & make driveability a problem. I unplugged mine for a while before cleaning it, and it would die on me if I took my foot off the gas with the clutch in.

[pr8head]

USMB is where I got the info about the dreaded screw and fixing my operator error. Also where I found the info on egr resistor idea. Your right it has a wealth of information on the old Subarus. But I'd have to say I do like your idea for the egr better, lots cheaper.

I "think" my IAC is ok or I have two bad ones. I cleaned it and the plunger does move but it runs the same with either one on it. It now idles iradically sometimes it will idle just right at about 800 then sometimes around 1500 and when its feelin really frogy it will surge from 800 to 1200. I think my car might be insane lol or at least it has tried to make me insane. I haven't messed with the throttlebody in a few months cause its like beating my head on a wall.

When you unhook your PS system do you leave the fluid in the rack and pinion?

[dennyt]

No, I left the lines in place because they would be a pain to remove, and I drained the fluid by turning the steering wheel left & right with a catch can on the return line.