Electric Motor Mounted Like Supercharger -- Electric assisted engine

[Panther140]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Would a motorcycle be out of question?

I've considered that, but I have a bad history with motorcycles from my racing days. I'm pretty sure none of my loved ones would sleep if I got back on any motorcycle. Several life threatening injuries and major surgeries etc etc.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Panther140

I'm pretty sure none of my loved ones would sleep if I got back on any motorcycle. Several life threatening injuries and major surgeries etc etc.

Indeed. My dad also had some serious injuries due to motorcycle crashes. One of my earliest childhood memories is seeing him with an Ilizarov device in his left leg. No wonder both himself and my stepmother have an objection about me willing to get a motorcycle.

[freebeard]

My cousin made it to 17. It was a BSA 650.

I'm considering a reverse tricycle with a six-point roll cage. I'd want it to have a pyramidal anti-intrusion bar on the left side opposite the door, and a big ol' crushable boat tail for, you know, mpge.

[Phantom]

I have thought about doing something similar to my Golf TDI but I would only have the electric motor running below 1800-2000 RPM. Something like the alt pulley on VWs would be good to disconnect the motor from the engine. The pulley allows the alt to free spin if it is moving faster than the motor reduces stress when I take 1st to 5500RPM and then shift to 5th at 950RPM or any spirited shifting.

If that pulley could be used on the engine side I could spin the motor up and the engine would take over after a set cut off speed. Down side no regen possible.

As for using an electric clutch like on an AC or PTO it should not be to hard to eliminate the harsh kick in. Using a motor controller it would need to be programmed to match speed with in a set percent when that is met it would send voltage to a relay that will give power to the clutch. The other part of the program that would have to be met would be the calculated load of the engine that should not be exceeded.

So if the engine currently runs like the following.
Load >80% V8
<80%V4

You would have the controller set up like the following.
IF Speed >50mph
and Load >75%
Regulate motor to engine RPM is with in 95-100%
Then Engage clutch.

After that you would just have the motor regulate speed based on the engine load and speed. Say have it turn off if <45mph, Load >92%, engine rpm <1500, and battery voltage is less than X.

[ar5boosted]

Originally Posted by Phantom

So if the engine currently runs like the following.
Load >80% V8
<80%V4

You would have the controller set up like the following.
IF Speed >50mph
and Load >75%
Regulate motor to engine RPM is with in 95-100%
Then Engage clutch.

After that you would just have the motor regulate speed based on the engine load and speed. Say have it turn off if <45mph, Load >92%, engine rpm <1500, and battery voltage is less than X.

It would be great to have a Ladder-Logic type controller like that.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Phantom

If that pulley could be used on the engine side I could spin the motor up and the engine would take over after a set cut off speed. Down side no regen possible.

Sounds quite like the BAS-Hybrid setup, but it does allow regenerative braking

[sikbrik]

I hope this doesn't fuel the fire because I'm not as knowledgeable as the rest but have you considered the tuning options which were presented? There was one that seemed to keep you in 4 cyl mode longer. As well, a good custom tuner can probably improve the efficiency of both the 4cyl and 8cyl modes. I got a huge benefit in MPG from PCM tuning alone. It's at least a good place to start.

I know you're trying to go that extra mile and some of it really comes down to you being my kind of guy who likes to tinker and make things better but there are a lot of variables missing when things like 4WD hubs and extra CV axles are being thrown around...what do they weigh, how much power to spin them, will used $100 hubs and bearings really hold up as long as what you have, etc.

Good luck, whatever way you go. I've just been down the road too many times where I'm trying to out-do what is really sensible and I figured one more detractor post would probably make you more determined to do it.

[dipstick]

2 cents from the peanut gallery.....

Something that I have not seen a mention of, though honestly, I did not read every post, is the losses due to the added weight of your system. 60#/battery*# of batteries in bank= increased load and loss of benefit overall.

And then there is the added cost of the batteries to begin with, which at approx $120 each for a decent battery*10 batteries in the bank= $1,200= violation of your low cost parameter.

[Ecky]

I've not found weight to have much impact in highway driving. Adding 600lbs to my 1800lb car doesn't even show up in the FCD once I'm up to speed.

[dipstick]

It is the "getting up to speed" and "hills" where that added weight should show up and cause losses... and then there is still the cost factor isn't there?