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Old 10-16-2015, 12:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have to ask, how are you powering your hydra boost brake booster? Did you go to a vacuum booster and an electric vacuum pump? I may have missed that thread. How much power does it take to push over relief on that p/s pump? I wonder if you have looked at an electric solenoid to bypass the system except when you need power assist.

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Old 10-16-2015, 02:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I am not using hydro boost.
From what I can tell the power steering pump by passes through the inside of the steering box when you don't need it. Only developing something like 150psi, but that pump generates so much flow it still soaks up a lot of power.
I found that it took 200 watts at idle speed to turn the power steering pump when its "bypassing" but it took over 500 watts at 2000rpm.

Plus in my infinite wisdom I ordered the wrong pump. Its only rated at 0.35 gpm. Not even worth trying. I knew something wasn't right when that pump showed up with size 4 ports.
I think what I really need is a single acting hydraulic power unit. I think bailey hydraulics has the perfect one, 2.1gpm, internal relief set for 1,400psi and normal -6 OR ports.
I don't have to have the "single acting" capability. This will allow me to turn off the pump and energize the single acting solenoid that will instantly form a bypass around the pump. It may make turning the wheel easier with no hydraulic power.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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What about just running the original pump with an electric motor? Are these hydraulic power units more efficient?
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It would take a large 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower 12v DC motor that costs around $300 and weigh around 30lb.
I believe the Saginaw P1 is just too large to be coupled with a fractional HP DC motor up under the hot engine compartment. The motor would constantly be running in overload in a hot environment so it would just fry.

The entire hydraulic power unit weighs about 30lb and I can put it where ever I want.
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Last edited by oil pan 4; 12-20-2015 at 08:40 PM..
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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HPU came in today.


It has a 3 gallon hydraulic tank. Which is about 3 gallons more than it needs to have.
I will cut it down as short as possible, weld it back together making the tank between 6 and 7 inches long.

Shipping weight was 36lb. With out all the packaging, smaller tank I think it will be closer to 30.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I finely got around to testing my hydraulic power unit in my power steering application.
The bad new is it draws more power at idle than I expected, I was expecting 40 amps, it draws 60 amps.
The good news is turning the steering wheel side to side on dirt it was drawing less than 110 amps. I was expecting it to draw closer to 200.
The steering wheel was turning almost effortlessly.
So 2.1GMP at 1400psi is more than enough.

The power steering pump still has that huge 3 gallon tank on it. I wanted to test it before I spent the time cutting it down and welding it back together.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 12-31-2015, 02:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The best thing I can think of to control the power steering is put it on a manual momentary switch wired to a time delay off relay that gives me between I am thinking 10 and 20 seconds of power steering per push of the switch.
Then place the switch on the center console so I can hold it down continuously if needed.

Driving the 3/4 ton suburban with power steering disconnected I have found that I don't need it most of the time. Backing up the trailer I will most certainly need it.

I believe the duty cycle of the hydraulic power unit is 2 to 3 minutes on, 8 to 10 minutes off. Depending on the load, temperature, ect.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I cut the 3 gallon tank down to about a 2 quart tank.


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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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with a smaller tank, it might need an inline cooler.
momentary switch: connect a momentary and an on/off just in case it's needed for a longer period.
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:07 PM   #20 (permalink)
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If anything it might need a fluid warmer. I expect the pump to be off all most all of the time.
I was thinking that I would wire it into a time off relay. So I have 10 seconds from the time I release the button.

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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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