Electric water pump effect on warm up times - Page 3 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

user removed · 10-14-2010, 06:31 PM

They have nuclear reactors working on the thermosiphon principle. Smaller reactors that can be transported on highways if memory serves me correctly.

Basically foolproof setups.

I believe when we really get to the self hypermiling car, the intermittent engine operation will work well with a thermosiphon system, possibly with an electric pump as a supplemental circulation when climbing grades where engine operation would be constant at high loads.

Drove my Z car 10 miles once using pulse and EOC when the fan belt broke. The clutch fan was turned by air pressure and circulated the coolant. Temp was actually lower than normal when I got there.

regards
Mech

autoteach · 10-14-2010, 10:03 PM

So, I will agree the an electric water pump will not shorten the warm-up time. I will also make it pretty clear, that for some of the same reasons that you want an electric fan, you should want an electric water pump. When a belt driven fan goes into lock up, it is spinning at a ratio that follows engine rpm. This is not beneficial to cooling for some important reasons. This is no different than an electric water pump. And, a benefit that is just first being seen, some electric H20 pumps dont have any seals to fail. They use a magnetic drive, using the impeller as the armature in a sealed housing. Cool stuff.

dcb · 11-27-2010, 06:20 PM

Finally ran into my kill-a-watt

my fan draws 29 watts regardless if it is blocked from the front, the back, with a stick, or not at all. Main difference being it only does useful work (moves air) when unblocked.

My heatshrink gun on cool draws:
119 watts open
116 dead head, speeds up a little
114 intake sealed, speeds up a lot
so fairly close readings all the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Try running a box fan, then throw something against it that blocks the air...

Interesting observcation. Do you think it would it be fair if power were measured by a kill-a-watt? I'll have to try that when I get home, both in cavitation and dead-head mode (lay it in the floor).

Phantom · 11-29-2010, 01:25 PM

What might be better than an electric water pump is a under drive pulley for the water pump. It can be lighter that stock making for less work on the engine and spinning slower it will move a little less coolant say 10%.

Frank Lee · 11-29-2010, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb

Finally ran into my kill-a-watt

my fan draws 29 watts regardless if it is blocked from the front, the back, with a stick, or not at all. Main difference being it only does useful work (moves air) when unblocked.

My heatshrink gun on cool draws:
119 watts open
116 dead head, speeds up a little
114 intake sealed, speeds up a lot
so fairly close readings all the same.

Thanks for doing the experiment- I sure figured it would use less with the intake blocked, as it speeds up so that would make sense.

UFO · 11-29-2010, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mechman600

Modern cooling systems develop 40+ psi of pressure at redline - imagine the amount of flow that that equates to.

No way. If there was that much pressure, you'd empty the contents of the radiator on the ground. Cooling systems typically use 12-15 psi caps.

Varn · 11-29-2010, 10:30 PM

Edit (I had an Electric water pump; a Moroso)
I ran an electric fan on a V8 Fiero conversion. It would run too hot. I talked to the originator of the system and suggested that I remove the thermostat. Wow no overheating. The thermostat was a big restriction. If the electric pump motor quit working I had an engine that was too way hot within a half a mile.

If you have an electric powered water pump and you could regulate it to supply just the right amount of speed you could eliminate the restriction of the thermostat and have a more efficient heating/cooling. There is a big "IF" in the reliability of the system. It hasn't worked for me.

The pump motor eventually froze up.

autoteach · 11-30-2010, 01:08 AM

Varn,did you have an electric fan or water pump? As for the success of electric water pumps, that has been proven (although I am not sure if that is what you were arguing).

Varn · 11-30-2010, 01:13 AM

autoteach
I miss typed, was an electric water pump The car also did have an electric radiator fan though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by autoteach

Varn,did you have an electric fan or water pump? As for the success of electric water pumps, that has been proven (although I am not sure if that is what you were arguing).

mechman600 · 11-30-2010, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFO

No way. If there was that much pressure, you'd empty the contents of the radiator on the ground. Cooling systems typically use 12-15 psi caps.

The pressure in the reservoir is 12-15 psi where there is no flow. This pressure is created by the expansion of the heated coolant in a confined space - the cooling system - not by the pump. In the block immediately after the water pump, the pressure is much higher. I have checked block pressure on many engines when I suspected a broken water pump impeller causing an overheating problem. 40 psi is not uncommon. Don't believe me? Then hook a gauge and find out yourself.