Elegant Forced Auto Stop (Insight)

[Natalya]

Don't know. I can't test this because I seem to get Auto Stop in below-freezing conditions anyway. I've had it at like 20°F.

[Natalya]

Just wanted to say someone on Insight Central reports that a momentary switch works great. I guess I was being overly cautious.

[MetroMPG]

Late to the party, and just wanted to say: nice work!!

Stuff like this really makes me miss my Insight (RIP).

[Ecky]

I had the idea to try integrating an outside-air temperature spoof into your autostop system, and went looking through my diagrams to see if there were any really clever ways of doing it.




Clearly, the outside air sensor only goes to the heater control, and does not split as the VSS does. This means the heater control is reporting something to the ECU, and there are only two wires going from one to the other:

1) ECU A23 (BRN/YEL) which is marked as "HTRS"

2) ECU A2 (BLK/YEL) which is marked as "ENGRDY"

When I see these two acronyms, I read them as "heater system" and "engine ready", but it's only conjecture. BLK/YEL (ENGRDY) goes to the gauge assembly, in addition to the ECU. Interestingly, the VSS (BLU/WHT) has a line that runs to both gauge assembly and heater control.

There are two interpretations I can see:

1) The gauge cluster sends signal or voltage to the ECU when the car is below a certain speed or under certain deceleration conditions, and the heater control panel also sends a signal/voltage if the outside air temperature is above a certain level, and if this signal/voltage is absent, you can get auto-stop.

This, however, does not explain why fooling the ECU with a fake VSS signal allows auto-stop. Why is the gauge assembly also connected to ENGRDY? Maybe the cluster provides another reason not to auto-stop?

2) Perhaps instead, ENGRDY informs the heater control to shut off the cabin air blower, and for the gauge cluster to show the auto-stop light, while HTRS is the signal letting the ECU know whether conditions for auto-stop are appropriate - e.g. climate control isn't set to "auto", temperature is appropriate.

I'd love for someone else to take a look at this and help me puzzle it out. I'm thinking one of these lines is a signal going to the ECU, and the other is a signal coming from it.

EDIT: It would be nice if HTRS was simply a present/absent voltage that signaled if auto-stop could activate. It would be nice to put that on a relay with the FAS module, and enable auto-stop at the push of a button even if climate control is set to "auto" or outside air temperature is too low.

[Natalya]

I'm bumping this thread. I still have pre-programmed Auto-Stop chips for sale for $18 shipped anywhere in the USA or $15 if picked up in person near Atlanta, GA.

I also have a pre-made PCB that I will sell for $43 shipped or $40 picked up anywhere near Atlanta. This is the board in question:



If you have a clutch switch in your G1 Insight (I cannot recommend a clutch switch more highly, you absolutely should get one if you have a manual, even if you don't want an Auto-Stop button) then this PCB will let you install an Auto-Stop button without any interference from the clutch switch.

I'm going to re-design this board with different components later, but I've tested this one and it works, and it's very similar to the older one I use in my car.

The red switch is for forwards compatibility with a possible future software update. Just leave it in position 1 for now.

Anyway, private message me here or on Insight Central if you want this PCB.

Also:
If you don't have a clutch switch yet you could still install this and get EFAS and then decide to install a clutch switch later.

[Natalya]

CODE UPDATE

PHP Code:

// Elegant Autostop
// Tells a G1 Honda Insight that conditions are right for AS
// Version 0.1

// #include <SPI.h>

int out_a = 9;
int out_b = A1;

void TimerOne_setPeriod(long OCRValue)
{
 TCCR1B = _BV(WGM12)|_BV(CS12)|_BV(CS10);   //  or use TCCR1B = 0x0d;            // CTC mode - 1024 prescale
 TCCR1A = _BV(COM1A0);                      //  or use TCCR1A = 0x40;            // Toggle mode 0C1A 
 OCR1A = OCRValue;                          // set the counter
}

void setup()
{
  pinMode(out_a, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(out_b, OUTPUT);
  TimerOne_setPeriod(3096);                 // set up and start Timer1 to blink at the same rate as the blink sketch
//  Serial.begin(9600);
//  Serial.println("setup");
}

void loop()
{
  digitalWrite(out_b, HIGH);
  delay(250);
  digitalWrite(out_b, LOW);
  delay(250);
} 


Now generates a second slightly different signal via PWM on pin 9. This signal gets you into Auto-Stop more reliably, BUT it doesn't persist unless you hold brake or clutch down, or if you have a clutch switch just turn that on.