engine kill switch basics**

[wilkes5]

Seems to me no really good "kill switch install" threads are available...Was hoping for someone to help me with my 2000 celica. Have learned different locations to install like the ignition wire/ fuel pump wires/ fuel injector wires/ camshaft sensor wires/ etc. Looking for the best way....maybe something which kills the engine but keeps everything on (thinking less work for the fuel pump****because don't want to replace it ).

[wilkes5]

Was planning on buying a Switchcraft kill switch (only because switchcraft might be MADE IN USA). Will Switchcrafts' 913x work for me (might not handle high current??)


**note*** had a link to the 913x but ecomodder says need a post count of at least 5 so...

[Daox]

Welcome to the site!

The reasons there isn't one good thread that covers it is because there isn't one good way to do it. Each engine is different and they all handle changes differently.

The cleanest way is probably killing power to the injectors, or killing their ground which is hopefully on a single wire. Do you have any wiring schematics?

The cutting crankshaft position sensor will kill your engine very effectively, but it will cause a check engine light. At least it did on my 97 Paseo.

[jedi_sol]

Ditto, kill switches differ with each car.

On my 1993 Honda del sol, I cut the ground wire for the fuel injectors

On my 2013 WRX STI, I cut the crankshaft position sensor. Luckily no cels.

Both versions, all electronics on both cars still function normally while the engine is off.

[wilkes5]

very nice. maybe the options in order of what will be most effective to least (for my car, a 2000 celica). camshaft seems to me to be a good place to start?

[wilkes5]

funny how just posted the last remark when on page 14 on another thread "kill switch how-to" reads....


" BUT *CAREFUL*! Interrupting this Hall sensor may cause your ECU to "throw a code", such as "No signal from Hall sensor" (what else?). In my car this constant writing of error codes caused the ECU to sometimes forget the ignition key authorization code, thus activating the electronic anti-theft immobilizer and the engine refused to start. At least that's my theory of what happened. Then it's time to tow to the authorized dealer.
Here's my thread of my experiences: Is EOC giving my ECU Alzheimer's? "

[wilkes5]

believe the guy from switchcraft said the switch could handle .25 amp? will it be strong enough?