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Old 06-20-2010, 04:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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02 tundra and 01 maxima both use ISO-9141 OBD2 protocol.

How much would a kit cost me?

How big would the obd2 inacuracy be for those vehicles for DWL, P&G, or trip/tank average?

Does the ethanol fuel or the winter/summer mix mess things up?

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Old 06-20-2010, 06:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't know if the ISO is a kit, here is Mags first version of ISO built with an arduino, an LCD and an extra chip for ISO communications, not too terribly complicated if you can figure out an arduino:
OBDuinoDiagram - opengauge - Whole diagram of the Arduino board, LCD, interface - Project Hosting on Google Code

here is the original obduino arduino source code (pde) and txt notes.

opengauge - Revision 167: /trunk/obduino

you are in for a lot of work if you are new to this sort of thing.
Edit: But having these little chips at your command is worth a lot too... I use 'em for everything from vehicles to water softeners.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the odb is actually less accurate than the mpguino method of reading injector pulses im sure i could combine them to make a hybrid. The obdguino has several unused pins. I do have some other ideas that would use those though.

Can a Barebones board arduino or a Really barbones board arduino work? Im not sure where to get that ISO chip.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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a regular arduino board will work. Looking at the OBD schematic, it should overlay perfectly with the mpguino, hardware-wise, as there is no conflict between OBD's use of TX/RX pins, and MPG's use of Injector/VSS inputs.

If you intend to dual-function the arduino, you will definitely need a 328 chip. 168 has too little memory. Also, to reduce pin usage for other functions, you could buy a 74hc164 chip for $.50, to allocate 3 fewer digital i/o pins to the LCD.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What about using an arduino mega? More input/outputs for doing what you want.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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problem is that the obduino and mpguino both have gotten away from arduino for production and there is plenty of non-arduino chip specific code in there. mpguino was already a bit much for arduino as an experiment. A new chip like in the mega will be work/testing/etc, plus all the fun of watching your stuff break with each new arduino version. I'm not volunteering to run another arduino based chip neutral effort for this sort of demanding application
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Old 06-21-2010, 05:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i recall someone having trouble running this on a mega, due to massive pin reassignments.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
The single most critical load indicator is manifold vacuum, or in the case of MAP which is atmospheric pressure minus manifold vacuum.

This can change considerably at most throttle positions depending on the speed, gear, and grade the vehicle is negotiating.

If you are at the lowest possible manifold vacuum reading without full load enrichment, you are in the best position as far as BSFC is concerned, as long as you are in the proper (read fairly low) RPM range.

Once you get the feel for this load range, then you have to calculate which gear will be best for acceleration to your peak speed.

As a general rule the highest practical gear is usually the best selection. The exception will be when you are climbing a grade and need to use a lower gear to maintain a speed up the grade. In every case you want to avoid absolute WOT and fuel enrichment, unless it is necessary for avoiding an accident.

Install a vacuum gauge temporarily and learn the best throttle positions to maintain your vacuum around 2 inches of less without WOT. After a while it will become second nature and you could remove the gauge.

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Mech
Hi,

can anyone tell how to properly assess LOD in scale of vacuum gauge?
I mean i.e. what values ​​should indicate vacuum gauge when LOD is 75-80%?
Is it the yellow field (from 10-5 In/Hg) or maybe lower?


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Old 05-30-2011, 02:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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dunno, here is me reading a map gauge at different pressures
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...nsor-5208.html

I would wang open the throttle and note the reading at different rpm readings to figure out the 100% line/curve then interpolate from there.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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MAP = Baro - intake vacuum

MAP = ambient Baro - intake vacuum
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure

MAP and
Intake vacuum

are NOT as useful as
Calculated load or Engine Load

systems that are speed density systems (that use MAP sensors) still have a flow PID
a MAF value even though it is calculated not measured -

OBD 2 generic has a MAF PID even when the system is a speed density


the PID is there , the scan tool may or may not see it , the scan tools you have referred to so far are tinker toys and should NOT be used by anyone serious about doing this kind of thing
imho
this scan tool OBD-2 Vehicle Explorer Scan Tool Browser is not a tinker toy and it costs LESS then
scan gauge 2
no
i do not own one nor do i have any thing at all to do with alex pepper
yet if i was beginning , that would be my first scan tool

Calculated Load or ENGINE LOAD can be used to determine how well or poorly your modification really works , repeat conditions and note change in Calculated Load , graphing is better
at WOT wide open throttle
calculated load on an NA engine should reach 100% it never does , but it should be close - modifications that restrict flow and output will show in max available calculated load , like the image above
60% calculated load would be an UN improvement , a failure , but you do not have to guess - you can test .

Measuring intake vacuum at hot idle is another way to test flow
the higher intake vacuum is at idle , the better the engine flows , 20" on most engines is "good" test your own engine to see .
turn on hi beams , watch vacuum drop , turn on AC , watch vacuum drop -

intake vacuum is NOT an accurate way to predict LOAD OR Fuel consumption at a certain load or rpm .
Calculated Load is

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