Finally gave in... bought an automatic

[jcp123]

Well, I'm not an expert, but I did have that Echo for a while, so I'll answer what I can.

[Stubby79]

Pink or red coolant, and why? Are there any good brands other than Toyota for said coolant?

ATF? I haven't even started looking in to what type it takes and how much...

Engine oil...5 or 10w 30? (fairly cool climate here). There any reason not to use high mileage semi-synthetic oil? Like killing the cat or anything. (though I only see that happening if it burns oil)

Anything else unique to Echos or Toyotas for maintenance/fluids/etc?

[gone-ot]

IF it's out-of-warranty, don't worry about using Toyota "juices," simply drain & thoroughly FLUSH the coolant system, then use ANY good aftermarket all-season coolant. There ARE compatible aftermarket transmission fluids too (our two Pontiac Vibes BOTH came with Toyota fluids, but have been switched over).

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Stubby79

I think it's the stock group 26 battery. All of ~420CCA. Its not very tall, and probably looks bigger because everything else is so dang small and tight under the hood. Same size as many small toyotas, and the same as in my Geo.

Its engine bay looks smaller than in my mom's Toyota Etios, which might make the battery look somewhat oversized.

[jcp123]

Man, I don't remember the trans fluid...I think it's ATF IV. The coolant I have no idea, but I used the green "universal" coolant. I won't say zero problems since a busted radiator was the problem which was my pretext for moving on. I doubt it was the coolant, but I won't tell you it wasn't. I'd have thought the water pump would have problems before anything else with the improper coolant.

With spring coming up, run the 5w-30 for sure. I'd be reluctant to move to the 10w regardless of conditions - in the dead of winter the thinner oil will flow more quickly where it needs to go. I wouldn't worry about moving to synthetic or synthetic blend if you want - I ran Pennzoil Platinum in my Echo with no additional leaks or consumption. When I let it go it had just over 270,000 miles on it, and oil was certainly not a concern.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

I'd only blend oils if their specifications are similar, otherwise I'd rather flush it all before changing for another specification.

[iikhod]

I've been using fully synthetic 5w-50 oil all year. Runs great, doesn't burn or leak any oil. 240k kms on the odo.


When i bought the yaris, soon CE-light came on and indicated a fault in the vvt-system. Changed oils right away and no problems since. Don't know what kind of oil the previous owner was using or how long since last oil change.

[Stubby79]

I'll check out the cost of "pink". If it's considerably longer life than normal stuff, and not more than twice the price of yellow, it's probably worth it long term. It's something I'd rather do and forget about.

I'll see if the user manual states anything about fluids. It actually has one. And the original dealership paperwork is stapled inside it. Looks to be a semi-local car all it's life. (explains why its not rusty)

Any idea about OE spark plugs? Some say iridium, some say copper...

[Stubby79]

Been puttering on things that needed doing on her.

• Replaced burnt out bulbs (3rds brake light, front markers) and the interior cabin lights with LEDs.
• Re-torqued the wheels.
• Cleaned all the ground and positive connections under the hood and battery terminals.
• Checked and decided what fluids will need replacing.
• Checked the air filter.
• Checked the cabin filter.
• Check the spark plugs.

Check out the spark plug I pulled:



That's pretty dang worn out!

At least I know it has had copper spark plugs in it for a long time.

Air filter looked almost new. (Guess the previous owner did some things other than just drive it)

Cabin filter was missing.

Both red fluids need changing, in my opinion. Coolant is red but opaque. ATF looks nice and clean on the dip stick, but when you wipe it on clean paper towel it looks dark and dirty.

Shopping list:

• More LED bulbs
• Wiper blades
• Cabin filter
• Spark plugs
• Coolant
• ATF
• Oil and filter
• Injector cleaner

To-Do List: (on top of replacing above parts)

• Brake check/lube.
• Fix or replace drivers window regulator.
• Polish/restore headlights.

Oh and yesterday I spent 4 hours shampooing the interior, but I'll get back to that.

[jcp123]

Iridium were what was spec'd in mine. I don't know and don't think yours should be any different. NGK's were the OE plugs, pricey suckers.