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Old 01-18-2013, 11:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=DieselX;347709]Well since we tow our travel trailer I don't want to go over board, but it is a 2002 7.3 and I have done a few mods. Added a 6637 filter, edge evo tuner, intake heater delete, removed the roof rack, external tranny filter, all synthetic fluids and some other various suspension mods for towing.

-it has been my experience that adding some Marvels Mystery Oil to the fuel when traveling nets a few MPGs. I switched over our tires to a LRR Michelin and that seemed to help 1 mpg or so. You already switched to light Syn oils, thats good. We have a K+N cold air intake system and that seemed good for 1+mpg. Our best is 18.2mpg, with all 8 of us, fully loaded with bikes and camp gear(the trailer was already over at the coast that trip, we had let friends use it the week before and then left it for us and we drug it back). Anyway, we went 750 miles that tank over and netted 18.2mpg! :{)

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Old 01-18-2013, 11:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool, I would love to see if the belly pan or air dam works. I might try the air dam but ours is a 4x4 and with those solid axles a belly pan might be tough. I have gone 800 miles on a tank a few times but usually 700 miles in mixed driving is good.

Getting some lrr tires next time around as the atr's probably don't help haha. Main thing I have found is speed kills. 50-55 is best speed as far as I can tell. I'll keep an eye out if you try a few things!!
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Ours is a 4x4 too. I will keep you posted as i have a HHO unit i have been waiting to put on as well. A friend in southern Idaho put one of his Cummings and gets consistant 4-5mpg increase! :{)
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Several people have tried with the 7.3L. Of the ones that posted results, all of them came back with unchanged mileage.

An interesting thing happens with 99-03 7.3L engines.... split shot injection.

There is a pilot injection right before the main event. Whatever you have in the cylinder that is combustible (propane, hydrogen, CNG, etc) will ignite on the pilot shot. With enough combustible fuel, you can seriously advance timing to the point of unrepairable damage.

Good thing about hydrogen is that there is so little of it in the cylinder, it combusts with the pilot shot and does absolutely nothing.

IMO, don't bother with a hydrogen kit, they don't live up to the power/mileage claims.


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Old 01-20-2013, 09:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DieselX View Post
IMO, don't bother with a hydrogen kit, they don't live up to the power/mileage claims.
I agree with that.
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My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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Old 01-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yesterday someone told me about a video they watched ten years ago (they had videos back then?! ), where some guy figured out how to... water... hydrogen... magic... hotter than the sun... of course, he did not remember it well, so he did a poor job of explaining it, and we just stared at him and said "Right."

I have heard about experiments creating temperatures greater than the surface of the sun, supposedly this guy was doing it in his Mr. Fusion.

How do scientists contain such temperatures?

Magic?

I apologize for the mini-hijack, I just did not think that it deserved its own thread.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Finally added an air dam, we will see if it works after a tank or two.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselX View Post
What's happening??

Newbie here, drive a diesel Excursion... My apologies. My wife is a traveling nurse and we live in our camper and move every 13 weeks. I home school our daughter and try to pick up odd jobs here and there.

Love this site and trying to learn a bit. I have been getting around 16mpg in mixed driving and maybe 11 towing.

Anyway just stopping by to say hello!!
Okay, you don't move very often, but I nonetheless wonder about how closely your weight-distribution hitch is dialled in. There's money here, not just better (safer) performance on the highway. Here is a post I made to that effect on a Dodge fourm.

Same for TT axle alignment and brake performance. And TT suspension in general.

This post by John Barca from an RV forum is a basic for leaf-sprung suspension TT needed upgrades.

The FE benefit is better tracking (fewer steering corrections). Less wear & tear on front end, tires, and brakes.

And the better the quality of the hitch, the better things are all around. The REESE DUAL CAM (or, slightly less, the EQUALIZER) are the minimum quality hitch one wants. The best would be the virtual pivot projection htches, the PRO PRIDE to be favored above the HENSLEY ARROW (but it can be found used for a good price; I have one). They are set up the same way as any WD hitch, but practically-speaking eliminate sway. I have done hard, prolonged maneuvers with mine that would put any 5'er on it's side, and would do the same for a TT with any lesser hitch.

LT tires/wheels in 16" to replace ST tires in 15", also. BF GOODRICH COMMERCIAL T/A an excellent choice. The reliability of ST tires is execrable.

All this seems expensive, but losing the use of the TT is a very real concern that is ignored by 90% out there. It's disposable, and insurance covers it is the "thinking". For someone fulltiming, this is in no way acceptable. Some changes to up reliability, and dialling in steering performance means finger-tip control and increased reliability.

All of which will add to your towing average mpg. And vehicle longevity (which is real economy).

To speak frankly your TV and TT are at the bottom of the heap for road performance. There is nothing worse the past 25-years than the Excursion in re it's steering, braking and handling. And the TT is generically bad. I wouldn't choose either under any circumstance. This is the harsh way of saying work to improve what you have as it can be done, and has been done by others.

Plenty can be done that itself is not expensive (alignments, for instance, on both vehicles; WD hitch numbers verification).

Eveything above is a subject in itself and much too much to write about here.. www.woodalls.com for research (and PM me if you want). Don't take my hard words to heart, but hear them for the attention needed to your familys home. The behind-the-wheel confidence factor will go way up, and spending money to save money will reap a genuine return.

FWIW I'm third generation with aero. all-aluminum TT's and am also a commercial driver. Participating here, on DODGE forums and on TT forums is how I wrap all concerns of longest life at lowest cost with highest reliability together. And llive/work full-time from my TT (the sig pic is the last TT, since sold).


.

Last edited by slowmover; 06-03-2013 at 09:31 AM..
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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2012 NC700x - '12 Honda NC700X
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Kid Car - '01 Chevy Impala
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air dam

Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselX View Post


Finally added an air dam, we will see if it works after a tank or two.
I too have been looking at Lowes to find some material suitable for an air dam build. Hopefully i'll make it in there again today and grab something similar to yours that i found used in garage door installation. Here is a pic of our Kid hauler towing our 29Q. This thing is a pig at 7800lbs dragging behind us. I only get an ave of 10.5-11mpg with it back there! :{)


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