fresh meat

[DieselX]

Originally Posted by slowmover

Okay, you don't move very often, but I nonetheless wonder about how closely your weight-distribution hitch is dialled in. There's money here, not just better (safer) performance on the highway. Here is a post I made to that effect on a Dodge fourm.

Same for TT axle alignment and brake performance. And TT suspension in general.

This post by John Barca from an RV forum is a basic for leaf-sprung suspension TT needed upgrades.

The FE benefit is better tracking (fewer steering corrections). Less wear & tear on front end, tires, and brakes.

And the better the quality of the hitch, the better things are all around. The REESE DUAL CAM (or, slightly less, the EQUALIZER) are the minimum quality hitch one wants. The best would be the virtual pivot projection htches, the PRO PRIDE to be favored above the HENSLEY ARROW (but it can be found used for a good price; I have one). They are set up the same way as any WD hitch, but practically-speaking eliminate sway. I have done hard, prolonged maneuvers with mine that would put any 5'er on it's side, and would do the same for a TT with any lesser hitch.

LT tires/wheels in 16" to replace ST tires in 15", also. BF GOODRICH COMMERCIAL T/A an excellent choice. The reliability of ST tires is execrable.

All this seems expensive, but losing the use of the TT is a very real concern that is ignored by 90% out there. It's disposable, and insurance covers it is the "thinking". For someone fulltiming, this is in no way acceptable. Some changes to up reliability, and dialling in steering performance means finger-tip control and increased reliability.

All of which will add to your towing average mpg. And vehicle longevity (which is real economy).

To speak frankly your TV and TT are at the bottom of the heap for road performance. There is nothing worse the past 25-years than the Excursion in re it's steering, braking and handling. And the TT is generically bad. I wouldn't choose either under any circumstance. This is the harsh way of saying work to improve what you have as it can be done, and has been done by others.

Plenty can be done that itself is not expensive (alignments, for instance, on both vehicles; WD hitch numbers verification).

Eveything above is a subject in itself and much too much to write about here.. RV Campgrounds, RV Camping, RV Rentals, RV Parks, RV Resorts - Woodalls for research (and PM me if you want). Don't take my hard words to heart, but hear them for the attention needed to your familys home. The behind-the-wheel confidence factor will go way up, and spending money to save money will reap a genuine return.

FWIW I'm third generation with aero. all-aluminum TT's and am also a commercial driver. Participating here, on DODGE forums and on TT forums is how I wrap all concerns of longest life at lowest cost with highest reliability together. And llive/work full-time from my TT (the sig pic is the last TT, since sold).


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Thanks Slow, We do have a Reese Dual Cam that is dialed in. I tweak it sometimes but its done us well.

The Ex has had some upgrades to the steering and suspension (springs RAS new ball joints etc.) and tranny upgrades (diesel site filter JW valve body) among other upgrades. we have had it since 2005 with no problems except water pump and fuel pump lol.

The tires are Goodyear Marathons so those I need to address. The camper we have now is only 2 years old, but we have been camping much longer so we didn't just start camping.

I appreciate your help and again thanks!!

[slowmover]

I didn't write that too well, so, apologies. Didn't come off as inviting . . especially as much of it is cheap and easy.

It may be a small sub-set of us fulltiming and willing to do the work, but we'd be well off in sharing numbers in online postings, not just those of overall FE. The details of the rigs, as it were. Living in a trailer is cheap until it isn't . . and when it iisn't can be a big problem. There is some interest out there, but at present no where for others to go to try to get perspective for both best performance/reliability + FE, too. We could get that rolling as we've different brands/designs, and are looking for overlap as these will transcend truck brand/spec, climate & terrain as truck use will be the same..

In short, the percentage improvements to the baseline average mpg, towing or solo.

I'll be detailing my WDH numbers in the next few months on the forums with different concerns as it related to all. The plan starts with pics and text on how to use a truck scale, etc, and proceeds from there. I expect info from those different forums to give me new things to look at as a result. One would think that using a scale was like pulling teeth, but fender height measurements are both inaccurate and can be non-repeatable, so I don't understand a/the general resistance to using CAT Scales to be accurate.

You might use the group over on the TOWING subforum on Woodalls. There is no substitute for numbers, and there is more to it that the specific ratio of TW seen at the three axle readings as that group can point out.

Glad to see you're familiar with some of the EX fixes. Is it 4WD or 2WD and what tires are working best for you?

So I'll stick my neck out again with: that hitch type is best with maximal loading (resistance to sway is dependent on ideal TW distribution), so the load on the trailer tires being maximized will be a real aid in braking. The combined rig can stop faster than the EX will when solo if the drums/wiring is brought up to a higher standard.

Depending on the brake controller used, one can have the TT brakes come in earlier, not just harder. The combo of verified WD and brake dial-in is a genuine FE win, too.

Least mount of time/distance/effort for driver inputs is directly related to best FE as remaining lane-centered and upright is the game where TV-TT alignment under all circumstances is the test.

Establishing the best mechanical baseline precedes both miles-reduction to accomplish the same work (trip plan) as well as improved driver technique.

Let me know your interest. Maybe we could come up with a thread to these ends to record our own numbers & changes as a guideline to others. I've run into another man on another forum who may be fulltiming with diesel truck and TT who might also contribute.

Hppe this now sounds more inviting.

.

[DieselX]

Originally Posted by slowmover

I didn't write that too well, so, apologies. Didn't come off as inviting . . especially as much of it is cheap and easy.

It may be a small sub-set of us fulltiming and willing to do the work, but we'd be well off in sharing numbers in online postings, not just those of overall FE. The details of the rigs, as it were. Living in a trailer is cheap until it isn't . . and when it iisn't can be a big problem. There is some interest out there, but at present no where for others to go to try to get perspective for both best performance/reliability + FE, too. We could get that rolling as we've different brands/designs, and are looking for overlap as these will transcend truck brand/spec, climate & terrain as truck use will be the same..

In short, the percentage improvements to the baseline average mpg, towing or solo.

I'll be detailing my WDH numbers in the next few months on the forums with different concerns as it related to all. The plan starts with pics and text on how to use a truck scale, etc, and proceeds from there. I expect info from those different forums to give me new things to look at as a result. One would think that using a scale was like pulling teeth, but fender height measurements are both inaccurate and can be non-repeatable, so I don't understand a/the general resistance to using CAT Scales to be accurate.

You might use the group over on the TOWING subforum on Woodalls. There is no substitute for numbers, and there is more to it that the specific ratio of TW seen at the three axle readings as that group can point out.

Glad to see you're familiar with some of the EX fixes. Is it 4WD or 2WD and what tires are working best for you?

So I'll stick my neck out again with: that hitch type is best with maximal loading (resistance to sway is dependent on ideal TW distribution), so the load on the trailer tires being maximized will be a real aid in braking. The combined rig can stop faster than the EX will when solo if the drums/wiring is brought up to a higher standard.

Depending on the brake controller used, one can have the TT brakes come in earlier, not just harder. The combo of verified WD and brake dial-in is a genuine FE win, too.

Least mount of time/distance/effort for driver inputs is directly related to best FE as remaining lane-centered and upright is the game where TV-TT alignment under all circumstances is the test.

Establishing the best mechanical baseline precedes both miles-reduction to accomplish the same work (trip plan) as well as improved driver technique.

Let me know your interest. Maybe we could come up with a thread to these ends to record our own numbers & changes as a guideline to others. I've run into another man on another forum who may be fulltiming with diesel truck and TT who might also contribute.

Hppe this now sounds more inviting.

.

It is a 4wd but not lifted (except what the RAS added) and my tires are Pirelli Scorpion ATRS but those will be switched soon. Michelin LTX MS/2 E is on the list, also may switch with my work truck tires when we et near home in July. They are Firestone Destinations E rated, I like those but they seem to wear fast with 80 psi.

I have a Prodigy brake controller that has served me well. The brakes on the TT are self adjusting but next time we move I might adjust them a bit anyway.

I have been doing better with mileage most tanks around 18-18.5 mostly city by slowing down and coasting more.

Thanks