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Old 01-24-2015, 11:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm a fan of the aircooleds as well. My grandparents had early Rabbits, his was a diesel that was built in Germany, and the only trouble was that the plastic coolant overflow tank eventually broke. (Gramps welded up a new one out of aluminum, I think it was.) Hers was a few years later, was US-built, and pretty spectacularly unreliable. They ditched it after the warranty ran out.

VW got better after that, and then worse again. I think the newer ones are decent now, but if you go back a decade things are much worse.

Note that most European cars require more maintenance than most of the Japanese and Korean cars. I'm OK with that.


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Old 01-25-2015, 12:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My parents had a 1988-89 VW Box ...I mean Fox.
It didn't last very long before it died.
My sister had a 2000 Dodge Intrepid.
To get to the battery, you have to remove the fender.
What a shame that such a beautiful design just covered up a turd underneath.

After reading over this thread, I'm glad I drive a Honda.
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Old 01-25-2015, 01:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I just spent $7,000 on my T5 2.5 TDI at ~25,000 miles, but the head's cracked (known fault) it needs a drive shaft (known fault) and while the engine is out, may as well do the clutch and DMF. That adds up to at least $15k at independent rates or about $24,000 at the dealer

Volkswagen? or Millionairewagen?

My mechanic says they all have issues from the Polo all the way up, they're designed to make it through warranty and then become a nice little(?) income earner for the spares and maintenance departments.

I've test driven everything else on the market and nothing comes close to my amazing 2.5TDI (including the new BiTurbo), I actually don't mind spending a bit of money maintaining it, but I have my limits.

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Old 01-25-2015, 02:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldtamiyaphile View Post
That adds up to at least $15k at independent rates or about $24,000 at the dealer
Holy s***! My whole car cost me less than $13,000.
Nissan Leaf driver? Join me in Team Leaf and feel smugly superior about our MPGe

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Old 01-25-2015, 02:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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skidmark - super snail - '89 honda civic wagon WAGOVAN
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Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
This thread reminds me of this flow chart...

I love this flowchart! Mine would say to buy a Honda. .


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Old 01-25-2015, 05:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Many people are critical of Consumer Reports, but I tend to agree with their reliability findings based on my own observations.

The least reliable brands appear to be VW, Mercedes, Jeep, and Land Rover. Some of the models within those brands have average reliability, but overall a poor track record.

I sold my 2002 Jeep Liberty with 120,000 miles on it in the hopes of avoiding major repair issues. In the 2 years I owned it, I had a transfer case sensor go out, an elusive "window open" chime that would go off constantly and illuminate the interior lights, and an evap leak, not to mention 18 MPG no matter what I did. I fixed all those cheap and relatively easy problems and sold it immediately after, before anything else could develop.

In 100k miles, I've done nothing but yearly oil changes on my 2006 Acura TSX (Euro Accord). I've kicked the dust off the air filter, replaced a glove box damper that I broke ($5), and changed the wiper blades a couple times.

I might change out the gear oil and coolant this year for the first and last time of my ownership. Any recommendations for Honda gearbox oil?
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by redpoint5 View Post
Any recommendations for Honda gearbox oil?
When I changed it on my crx i researched that and came to opinions being generally 50/50 between Honda MTF and synchromesh. I ended up using synchromesh and I approve!

I'm another one that has no VW experience but I have been bent over backwards by dealerships.
My Toyota Tacoma had an electrical problem, I would turn on the cruise control and set the speed. If I were to turn on my parking lights it would kill my CC and I couldn't use it again until I killed and re started the engine. After weeks of trying to figure it out myself for weeks I took it to toyota and come to find out there was a short in the taillight bulb. $120 later... FOR A BULB they charged me for an hour of labor, when I bet it took the mechanic 5 minutes.

Took my CRX to Honda for blinkers not working. They fixed that for a hour of labortook the car home and tried to start it the next morning, no juice, the battery was dead. Lights weren't on and battery was just fine before the dealership. Called and left a voicemail on how the tech killed my battery (porter even told me my car had to be jumped) so they looked at my car free of charge. Then I get a call and they want $464 to replace the alternator. Hell NO. Cost me $80 for a new alternator and a couple hours of my time.

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Old 01-25-2015, 06:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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My dad had an '85 vw golf when I was growing up, easily the most reliable vehicle he ever had. Then he bought a couple '95 jettas with the 2.0, one 5 speed the other auto. after two transmissions in the manual its sitting unrepaired and the automatic had some electrical issues but for the most part has been a pretty good car. Leaky sunroofs in both.

I always hear that chrysler vehicles suck but i have never had major issues with any that i have owned, i guess it depends on which engine and transmission you choose. I purposely chose a 4spd auto instead of the 6spd auto.

so far my caddy has been really good to me and with the anticipated timing chain failure/replacement, I will gladly let the dealer maintain it to keep my forever warranty.

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Old 01-25-2015, 08:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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At least on here, do we agree that Hondas and Toyotas are generally good cars? I had a great experience with the Subaru dealership, they looked at my car, gave me juice and cookies, a ride back to my Civic, and waived their inspection fee. However, their head gaskets are inexcusable.

Jooseppi Luna, that is an awesome flow chart!
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Flakbadger View Post
Seconded---Took my car in for two recalls, was told after said recalls were done that they needed to replace my serpentine belt and clean my rear brake drums (lolwut) to the tune of $257. I laughed and replaced my serpentine belt myself for $18 My opinion anyway.
Just to be clear....they were going to charge $257 just for the belt... How much more for the labor??????
And you paid $18 for the belt and clicked your little Dorothy slippers three times and the belt was on.....right????

Or just maybe.....the truth is their quote included a couple of hours of labor and it took you all day????

MetroMPG: "Get the MPG gauge - it turns driving into a fuel & money saving game."

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Second: Grille Block

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