Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > DIY / How-to
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-25-2008, 10:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NWAR
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've used contact cement. It bonds very firmly so make sure the pieces you are bonding are perfectly lined up because it is not very forgiving if you have to start over.

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 06-26-2008, 10:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
Coasting Down the Peak
 
skyl4rk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: M I C H I G A N
Posts: 514

Toyauto Pickup - '94 Toyota Pickup 2WD
90 day: 36.32 mpg (US)

Versa Base - '09 Versa Sedan 1.6 Base
Team Nissan
90 day: 41.69 mpg (US)
Thanks: 27
Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
I tried two adhesives which I use for boatbuilding.

I cut 6" x 6" squares from a coroplast sign and glued the squares together with about a one inch overlap. I applied the glue and then drove 2 deck screws through the joint to clamp it together. Then left it without touching it overnight.

1. Two part epoxy, similar to WEST System. Cured 24 hours. I was able to pull the pieces apart, but it took quite a bit of effort. The plastic bent much easier than the force needed to pull the two parts apart. Where there was paint from the sign graphics, the epoxy pulled the paint off of the coroplast. The pieces would probably hold together in most high speed wind conditions. Using a fastener like a bolt or rivet on the ends would likely help keep the pieces together in high stress conditions. I did not wipe the joint with acetone first, that might help improve adhesion. I did not scuff the joint with sandpaper, that might help too.

2. PL Concrete and Masonry Sealer. This is a polyurethane caulk which is used by boatbuilders as a glue because it is relatively cheap and works as well as other polyurethane glues like 3M 5200. After 24 hours, the joint had not cured completely. I believe that this is because polyurethane needs moisture in the air to cure, or maybe it just needs air. Perhaps misting the joint with water would help cure time. Perhaps using only a small amount of adhesive in a thin layer would work best. I put the two parts back together and let it cure an additional 48 hours. It held together quite tightly and took a lot of effort to pull apart, similar to the epoxy. The center of the joint was not cured completely. This adhesive would also work although you would probably need to allow it to cure for a week or more. I also tried an end to end joint, applying the glue to the end of one piece and pushing another piece against it in a butt joint. With no over lap and just the 4mm width of the two pieces touching, it was actually a decent join, not too difficult to tear apart but surprisingly tough. I tested it after 36 hours of cure time.

I tried a pop rivet on the coroplast, and it would work if you used a washer or some hard material on either end of the rivet. The rivet would pull through when trying to rivet two layers of coroplast with no backing. I don't like pop rivets much because they have an ugly side to them on the inside, but it would be one way to fasten a joint. Another type of fastener that would work with coroplast is to use zip ties, but they are quite flexible and probably would not work well together with adhesive. Deck screws with large threads worked well but then you have the points on the inside to deal with. Maybe light nuts and bolts with plastic washers might be the ideal fastener to use together with adhesive.
__________________
Nissan Versa Aeromods
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2008, 11:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Albany, ny
Posts: 248

NewBlue - '07 Honda Civic EX
90 day: 38.13 mpg (US)

The Better Half - '97 Ford Ranger XLT
90 day: 25.84 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
On the subject of Zip Ties, they work quite well with coroplast, I was able to make slits along the corrugation and run the zip tie inside the coroplast without coming through the front then tying it to whatever i needed. This is how I fasted my front fog lamp covers and grill block. The fog lamps used zip ties connected to an I-bolt this allowed me to get everything tucked where it needed to be then tighten the bolt from the back of the bumper (I had to drill a hole in the fog lamp holder spot but it's not too devastating).

The zip ties work great and allow for the modifications to be removed without any damage to the car except the hole in the blank fog lamp things but like i said, not too concerned about those. Also it provides for a smooth outer layer with no fasteners sticking through the coroplast.
__________________
2007 Honda Civic Ex
Second Goal = 50mpg
First goal = 40mpg Goal Achieved 3 tank average over 40mpg
Starting point 30mpg ready...... GO.

  Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 03:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: CT usa
Posts: 224
Thanks: 11
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
I know the faces of the coroplast are corona treated but the cut ends arent. Flashing with a flame i would thing would be hit or miss. I do have a bottle of primer somewhere but I wonder if i could do a diy corona treatment on the ends.

I have a 15kV 30mA 60hz neon sign transformer based jacobs ladder in my basement. Maybe I could run the edges of the coroplast over the arc to treat them. I could put much shorter electrodes on it and build a simple box around it with an open top and a tall slot cut in it to pass the coroplast through. Hehe.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2010, 05:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
Cogito Ergo Ecomod
 
davidgrey50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Algarve, Portugal
Posts: 61

Dobbin - '04 Dodge Dakota 3.7 V6 A/T
Thanks: 9
Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts
A(nother) handy website - This to That (Glue Advice). How to glue anything. And everything.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2010, 12:32 AM   #16 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Dr. Jerryrigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: mass
Posts: 181

The Sh*t-Box - '99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
90 day: 27.81 mpg (US)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Has anyone tried a box stapler, it seems like it would be a quite good mechanical connection.
__________________
Redneck Repair forum
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 06:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
NightKnight
 
NachtRitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Placerville, CA
Posts: 1,594

RippinRoo - '05 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 GT
Subaru
90 day: 21.16 mpg (US)

Helga - '00 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
TEAM VW AUDI Group
Diesel
90 day: 53.91 mpg (US)

Olga - '03 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon
90 day: 46.24 mpg (US)
Thanks: 303
Thanked 311 Times in 186 Posts
I've found that a hot glue gun (pro, not hobby) works really well, especially if I pre-heat the coroplast with a heat gun (not too much else the coroplast melts). Gives me a bond that I can use about 10 - 15 minutes after gluing.
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 06:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
Do more with less
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Eastern Missouri
Posts: 916

OD - '05 Ford Econoline
90 day: 18.64 mpg (US)

Joetta - '86 Volkswagen Jetta Turbo Oil Burner
TEAM VW AUDI Group
90 day: 49.71 mpg (US)

Benzilla - '85 Mercedes Benz 300D
90 day: 28.08 mpg (US)
Thanks: 59
Thanked 167 Times in 105 Posts
First post here:
I have had experience from the recumbent bike racing scene. I would use an awl and cable ties. Put plumbers tape over them. A glue gun can be used but it isn't perfect. Make sure that you get the coroplast hot with the glue gun.
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 04:48 PM   #19 (permalink)
Smeghead
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Central AK
Posts: 933

escort - '99 ford escort sport
90 day: 42.38 mpg (US)

scoobaru - '02 Subaru Forester s
90 day: 28.65 mpg (US)
Thanks: 32
Thanked 146 Times in 97 Posts
plyobond. follow the directions and it will bond anything to anything. We use it on aircraft stuff often.
__________________

Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.

One mile of road will take you one mile, one mile of runway can take you around the world.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2015, 01:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: 17257
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It was my understanding that most Coroplast is Polypropylene not Polyethylene. The is corugated PVC . Coroplast used for signs is treated (Corona Flashed) to accept sign inks which compound the adhesion process It can be removed by using a propane torch with a flame spreader the strongest bonds are with low melt glue stick guns as the sticks are polypropylene.. 3m Dp-8005 is perfect but expensive. Another technique is stitching with zip ties or pop rivets with washers.

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Where did you buy Coroplast? tjts1 EcoModding Central 28 11-18-2009 01:12 AM
Coroplast undertray question (covering the control arms) Otto Aerodynamics 8 03-30-2009 12:27 PM
Fastening coroplast to the underbody Daox Aerodynamics 2 05-23-2008 02:57 AM
Coroplast question Otto Aerodynamics 14 03-27-2008 11:45 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com