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Old 04-28-2012, 01:27 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Oh man, that sounds horrible. I've heard of people dying from a slipped handlebar at the wrong time. But it's good you brought it up. I shouldn't just spew tidbits about using aluminum tubing as handle-bars, without explaining how I aim to do it right, afterall. I wouldn't want copycats to get hurt.

Bars-slipping: reminds me of the problems those ape-bars have. With all that leverage, users have a hell of a time keeping them tight. One trick that seemed prevalent in my searches, is using emery cloth to keep them from slipping. I never planned on using ape bars, but I figured, if I duplicate methods used to keep those gargantuan levers from leveraging out of place, I'll be set.

What I'll be using is seamless/drawn 6061 Aluminum. 6061 is the same grade alloy Easton uses for some of their lightweight bicycle handlebars; incidentally, motorcyclists have been known to use their bars in the past. It's between 10 and 11 gauge (1/8" wall thickness.); on top of that, it's flat/broomstick; so there won't be any slippy leverage.

I'll be knurling it and using the tried and true double emery cloth trick they use on ape bars, and stainless steel bolts that I can tighten like my life depended on it.

Going to keep them as short as possible, end-to-end. I'm starting with a 26" (requires some turn signal moving or aftermarket signals) bar, which I've confirmed with a loose fit, is long enough. Any length I can trim, I will; as long as I still have it symmetrical on both sides, while also keeping the full turning radius. I'm also using a 30mm riser for it (a broomstick needs at least some extra clearance for this bike; consensus in the Zuma world is a 1" riser does the trick).

A bit of silicone caulk for the grips will act as grease to slip them on, and then cure into glue to help keep them on. Truth be told, I already did a dry-run with one of the grips on the aluminum bar; taking it off took some real effort. The silicone isn't there so much to keep grips on, but weather-seal it and keep them from slipping if the bar gets wet.

All in all, I think this is calculated to be safe and is a baby-step towards more serious eco-modding in the future.

I also plan on moving things around and sitting lower and more comfortably, but that mod's probably going to wait until winter.

Parts list summary:

7/8" outside diameter, .125" thickness - 6061 Seamless/Drawn Aluminum Tubing
Emery cloth
Silicone Caulk
Tusk Handlebar Riser Kit 7/8" Bars 30mm

I think that covers everything.

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Last edited by Kincurd; 04-29-2012 at 11:20 PM..
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:25 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I've had loose grips a few times on bikes. No fun when they slide off!

The stock grips on my new bike have a manufacturing defect,
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...LandRgrips.jpg
so I'm getting some bolt-on grips!

ERGON GP1-S Mountain Bike Bicycle Handlebar Grips NEW | eBay

I didn't like the way the stock grips slowly rotated during a ride..
Doesn't instill confidence.

The liner inside my old Bell brain bucket had gone bad.
Instead of buying the $15 replacement liner kit (foam with velcro on one side),
I blew $22.99 on a new helmet.. Like the fit better too.

Bern Macon Summer EPS Helmet (Ebay)..


Now, I'm ready for the summer!!
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Don't know if these grips would be good on a motorbike, but they sure are nice on my bicycle.



Before I started installing these, I found my shifter and brakes were too close to my hands..
I had left them in the 'factory' installed positions.
Now, I've moved them in towards the middle a bit and they are much easier to grab..
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:43 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Here was my zuma


I am not a scooter rider so my wife took it over and returned the bodywork to stock. She did rebuild the 50 with a 70 kit

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Old 04-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #25 (permalink)
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When you had that big aero-nose on it, what was the change in MPG?
That thing looks like it would be funky in a crosswind..
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I never measured the mpg with it. If you look at the photo you can see the aero seat I had on it. One of the reasons that the seat is so high is the large bucket under it. If you take off the body work you can mount a seat several inches lower. In my case the stock handlebars were at shoulder height.

I originally had planned to make a coroplast body behind the nose.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:06 AM   #27 (permalink)
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"handlebars were at shoulder height".. Which makes me wonder how you could see the roadway?
To avoid things like potholes..
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:29 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I think handlebar grips are still pretty universal Xringer. They're all meant to go on 7/8" grip areas; except on a motorcycle on the right-hand side, it has to fit over a slightly bigger circumference for the throttle. My only problem with those bolt-ons you got would be the throttle; might be weird to use even if I made it work. They make some some kind of after market quarter-turn throttle I could use, though; so I don't have to turn it quite as much.

I like where you were going with that Zuma, Varn. Looks like you never got to finish it before passing it on.

I plan to sit lower in my bike when the time comes. I was thinking I'd have to move the gas tank to sit as low as I would like. If I can at least sit a bit lower by removing the panels as you said, that's better than nothing.

Well my new handle-bar install went well. I did a lot more work than I had to over the weekend. Ended up taking off the front panel and headlights and putting it all back together. After that, I installed the 26" broomstick. Had to mount the turn-signal lights on top of the handguard bracket to make room. I bought longer bolts this morning on the way to work (stainless steel allen butten head) so I can put the handguards back on along with the new turn signal mount.

Plan to get some signals that look better in the future.

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Last edited by Kincurd; 04-30-2012 at 11:38 AM..
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