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Old 03-17-2009, 10:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hi,

That looks a lot closer to what may work. You may want to err on the side of not blocking enough at first, and see how it goes -- and if it is cool enough, block a little more?

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Old 03-17-2009, 10:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That will no work. Because if I cut the plexie glass I can't put it back together. That is why I am starting with the bumper then grill.
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi,

What if you continue the test with tape a little longer? That way you can experiment.
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That is a good idea. I will try that.
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My finding was, I need to have an adjustable grill block. I watch the water temp on the ScanGauge. I used chunks of foam pipe insulation. Usually several pieces duct taped together to fill the open gaps in the grill.

For really cold days, say below 10ºF, a tiny opening about 3x6 inches is enough. Maybe don't even need that in very cold weather.

Now with temps between 60-70, I need about three openings that size. I know I'll need more when it gets warmer in summer.

In my case the smaller grill opening increases under-hood temps which supplies my warm air intake.

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Old 03-19-2009, 06:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hi Bruce,

I think that the location of the opening greatly affects the effectiveness. You should be fine with the whole upper grill blocked (and with the edge of the hood sealed). I think leaving the center of the lower grill open will be the most effective with the smallest opening; or at least that is how it works on my xA:

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Old 03-19-2009, 08:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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One stupid question: Do you EOC? Is the overheating in spite of EOC? (checking applicability of this caution in my particular case, so will appreciate an answer).

Also I saw an MPGuino-actuated grille block some days ago on this forum somewhere.. will it help you?

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