Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Aerodynamics
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-15-2010, 01:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
Wiki Mod
 
Weather Spotter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Midland MI, USA
Posts: 2,042

Max - '14 Ford C-Max SEL
Thanks: 228
Thanked 304 Times in 210 Posts
From 50 MPH I can coast 1 full mile and still be at 15 MPH when I apply the brakes for the stop sign. Without aero mods it was only .6 or .7 of a mile.

any picts of what you did to the under side of the car?

__________________
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 09-15-2010, 01:45 PM   #42 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: saint louis
Posts: 88
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
I will post pics, but not yet. I still have duck tape on one part that I cannot figure out how to suspend without drilling into my car. I'm thinking about just switching types of tape to "speed tape" used on aircraft. as long as it will cling to the plastic, I will be good, but duck tape is too temporary.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 01:52 PM   #43 (permalink)
Wiki Mod
 
Weather Spotter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Midland MI, USA
Posts: 2,042

Max - '14 Ford C-Max SEL
Thanks: 228
Thanked 304 Times in 210 Posts
Put up some picts and we can help with ideas
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 04:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: saint louis
Posts: 88
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
here are the pics, I tried to fill every bit I could with one piece, but I will need to come in with at least one more piece in the rear. the upper grill block is still in mock up form here, but you get the point.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	front 1.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	104.7 KB
ID:	6875   Click image for larger version

Name:	front 2.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	83.1 KB
ID:	6876   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	107.0 KB
ID:	6877   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear2.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	88.6 KB
ID:	6878   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear3.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	89.3 KB
ID:	6879  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rear4.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	101.1 KB
ID:	6880   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear5.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	93.2 KB
ID:	6881   Click image for larger version

Name:	rear6.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	104.3 KB
ID:	6882  
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 04:54 PM   #45 (permalink)
EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: North Central Alabama
Posts: 572

Big Salsa - '04 Toyota Sienna LE

Silver - '10 Toyota Prius III
Thanks: 110
Thanked 123 Times in 71 Posts
It looks like your car was a partial "bottom breather". It pulled a lot of it's cooling air in from underneath. That's what the "air dam" was for, not keeping air from going under the car, but for redirecting air up into the radiator. If you have closed off that opening, and still aren't overheating, I would look into taking out the "air dam" and extend the smooth under paneling further back. For an air dam to be most effective, it should be at the very front of the car, where it is now, it isn't changing the stagnation point in front of the car, it's just getting air to pass over your engine compartment, which could be done with smooth paneling more effectively.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 08:37 PM   #46 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 568
Thanks: 1
Thanked 73 Times in 58 Posts
At the rear, maybe lower the leading edge of the Coroplast and attach it flush with the bottom or the cross-member with all the holes in it? Put zip ties through those holes?

Around the muffler, use aluminum window screen to smooth the air flow, yet still let the muffler heat out and "breathe?" That way, muffler does not over-heat the space around it.

At the front, make a curved air dam out of that lawn edging stuff, which the tucks into the lower trailing edge of the bumper cover? Maybe this would shed some of the stagnant air more gently to the sides.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2011, 07:40 PM   #47 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Necro-thread revival

@ Otto: That crossmember with all the holes in it is the rear axle. Saturn ditched the nice (expensive) independent rear suspension for a crappy (cheap) solid axle design when they dropped the SL cars and went to the ION. I don't see a very good way to attach a pan to a live axle.

To the OP: I've been looking into aero-modding my 2004 ION, aiming for 40 MPG highway (best tank 35.5 MPG, 72 MPH cruise, stupid 10% ethanol Minnesota gas).

From my quick and dirty testing as well as the road grime buildup on the car I think the biggest gains are to be had in the rear. As my tuft-testing (somewhat) shows there is a significant stagnant area on the rear window that can be easily seen every time it rains or snows (droplets sit motionless in the middle of the rear window and snow will actually swirl around the center of the rear window at 70 MPH for many miles.

As I'm sure you've noticed, the trunks of these cars gets TONS of road grime and tar stuck to them which made me think the car is dragging a huge wake. The wake theory was proved (to me anyway) the time I had an 18" boat-tail mod on the car (snow buildup hanging off the vertical part of the trunk) from driving 5 hours in a blizzard... I had to remove it so I could open the trunk, but it would have melted in a couple days anyway.

I intend to tidy-up the rear bumper area similarly to how you did it as well as experiment with vortex generators at the back of the roof/top of the rear window. Maybe an upper grille block thrown in for good measure.

-Wrench

(Guess I can't add attachments, probably because it's my first post. I'll come back and add them when I'm allowed to.)
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2011, 07:05 AM   #48 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Ecobalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 41
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrench View Post
@ Otto: That crossmember with all the holes in it is the rear axle. Saturn ditched the nice (expensive) independent rear suspension for a crappy (cheap) solid axle design when they dropped the SL cars and went to the ION.
The Ion had a "twist beam axle", not a "solid axle". Welcome to our forum.
Saturn Ion First Drive
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2011, 11:33 AM   #49 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Semantics... solid axle, twist beam, they're both crap and they're not nearly as good as a true independent suspension.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 03:42 AM   #50 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 44

Knight - '07 Chevy Cobalt LS

Chevyteg - '95 Acura Integra LS
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecobalt View Post
What transmission?
He has the F23 transmission rated to 170 tq if he has a manual trans.

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread




Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
EcoModding for Beginners: Getting great gas mileage. SVOboy EcoModding Central 55 08-21-2012 12:34 AM
What is ecomodding? MetroMPG Forum News & Feedback 5 01-17-2012 09:08 PM
Ecomodding: there's more to it than just improving your fuel economy basjoos EcoModding Central 20 09-27-2010 10:18 PM
2.2l Ecotech + 2004 Saturn Ion Level 2 WV6Z EcoModding Central 2 09-07-2009 07:08 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com