Hot-rodding the Toyota MGR

[MPaulHolmes]

If I just add one extra PWM for IGBT control on my contro/driver board, and a big fat 50 pound 200amp inductor (off the shelf. I have one!), you can do an AC controller with an input boost stage (it's a buck stage during regen). The bad part is, the input IGBT sees the high input current and the high output voltage. The worst of all worlds. haha. But not that big of a deal if you are willing to go half way to the required 650v.

[P-hack]

Just curious, do you have a part number for that inductor or core?

at 200 amps, it might be just enough for 3 stock motors also.

[MPaulHolmes]

It was a CH-200 from Signal Transformer. Digikey is out of stock on them, but it was cheaper ordering directly from them anyway.

[NeilBlanchard]

Does the Toyota MGR unit have a parking stop? I was not looking for this when I read through the thread.

[e*clipse]

Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard

Does the Toyota MGR unit have a parking stop? I was not looking for this when I read through the thread.

If you mean like the Prius' electic parking brake, no. Just gears; no locking pins or clutches.

I prefer a manual locking e-brake, anyway.

- E*clipse

[e*clipse]

Sorry it doesn't seem like much has been happening with this.

I've been working on the design for a spool and one sided output so I can use this for a 1 motor/wheel type setup.

The drivetrain shop I'm working with is willing to take this on. So after a few meetings and a few design iterations, we're finally getting to a "make-able" design.

One of the toughies is dealing with splines, and for a number of reasons, I'm going with a splined design rather than other options. The main problem is the internal spline - broaches are extremely expensive. Fortunately, the shop I'm working with has two that are nearly perfect for this part! Here is a pic of the spool design; it still needs a bit of work:



I've done some FEA analysis, and it looks like there are no high stress areas that will result in fatigue failure, etc. The axle is made of 4340 steel and the flanges are made of something weaker, like 4140. Surprisingly, the ring gear flange could be made of 2024-T4 aluminum. The flange on the left is designed to accept a 100mm "Type 2" VW CVT. The right flange is designed to bolt directly to the MGR's ring gear. This part would elliminate the differential carrier, using the tapered roller bearings that the differential carrier currently uses.

- E*clipse

[freebeard]

This is relevant to my interest, so I'm trying to put it in context. When I compare to the Toyota part #s 14309K and 14309L, they are splined on the inner end while yours is on the outer end. Could you show the parts against each other and/or the case?

Could your machinist produce two of the six-holed part with 4 holes on a 3" circle? Because that's what I'm thinking I need.

Also, this is old news, but I'm not proud of it. I just need to clear the table for the new year:



I got the subframe, just so I could see it. I thought I might be able to cut the middle 2/4ths out of it and use that. Alternatively, I wanted to know if it could carry a front-wheel drive suspension and steering. I conclude that might work in a rear-wheel drive configuration, like in a kit car.



I've decided to go back to Plan A, a bracket welded onto the stock transmission mounts. I've had a piece of C-channel that would work, but it weighs as much as half this subframe.

[freebeard]

So, nothing new since last year?


Here's a picture of my donor vehicle. It's pretty much a rat rod already, so there is not much to do except shocks and brakes and the EV conversion. Ignore the redwood superstructure. It will have a vinyl bra over the back of the dash and steering, and a flip-down trunk carrier like on an old 1920s car with the removable trunk. For an optional/swappable battery pack, or laundry or concrete blocks from the store.

Later on, maybe an 8" front beam extender/battery box and the stock hood.

[e*clipse]

Hi freebeard!

To put the above drawing in context, I would suggest looking back to some of the first pics of the MGR. These three parts will replace the (internal) differential carrier. If for some reason, you would like a locked differential or a MGR with output only on one side, then this will be useful.

If you plan to use the MGR as one power unit directly, then this will be of little use to you. However, in my exploring, I did find some interesting stuff. There is a LOT of custom VW type CVT stuff out there, with custom length drive shafts available for sand rails. It seems to me that making an adapter between the stock toyota 4 bolt pattern and one of the 6-bolt VW/Porsche/Audi CVT's would open up a lot of opportunities. Generally, the Type2 VW (96mm bolt pattern) or the Porsche 930 6-bolt pattern would be a good way to go.

I would agree with you regarding the motor mount. That sub-frame is designed to support a much heavier, bigger part.

- E*clipse

Also - just wondering - you were involved with a fellow who was going to make a transmission/adapter. Do you still have the contact?

Originally Posted by freebeard

This is relevant to my interest, so I'm trying to put it in context. When I compare to the Toyota part #s 14309K and 14309L, they are splined on the inner end while yours is on the outer end. Could you show the parts against each other and/or the case?

Could your machinist produce two of the six-holed part with 4 holes on a 3" circle? Because that's what I'm thinking I need.

Also, this is old news, but I'm not proud of it. I just need to clear the table for the new year:



I got the subframe, just so I could see it. I thought I might be able to cut the middle 2/4ths out of it and use that. Alternatively, I wanted to know if it could carry a front-wheel drive suspension and steering. I conclude that might work in a rear-wheel drive configuration, like in a kit car.



I've decided to go back to Plan A, a bracket welded onto the stock transmission mounts. I've had a piece of C-channel that would work, but it weighs as much as half this subframe.

[freebeard]

Also - just wondering - you were involved with a fellow who was going to make a transmission/adapter. Do you still have the contact?

This is not ringing any bells. Do you have a post number?

I was afraid that was an internal part & agree about sand rail part opportunities, but I don't have any solid leads. I have the stock VW trans mounts and will get some metal stock when I can. I'm a little hampered by circumstance at the moment.

I'm thinking ~1/8th plate with hot-rolled edges, and the rear mount will incorporate hinges for the rack and venting for the air-cooling fan.