04-04-2023, 05:30 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Not Doug
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How a mechanic replaces a fencepost
I don't know why I have been watching this guy. I only see him repairing Mercedes and I don't ever see myself owning German cars, but he stopped to fix his fence.
Why did I watch a guy fix a fence?
Whoever worked on it last did some confusing things, but the pressure-treated lumber rotted away, so he needed to pull the posts, pour new concrete, and install new posts.
He put down a piece of plywood, screwed one 2x4 into the 4x4, and another 2x4 into that.
Then he used a jack to pull out the fencepost!
He also used an air hammer to break up concrete when the 4x4 broke and he needed to pull out pieces of post and concrete. Is it me or does the neighbor have a concrete mixer just a short distance from the fence?
Sure, mixing it in the hole works, but I would use a mixer if I could!
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04-04-2023, 11:21 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Green pressure treated lumber was mostly for termite prevention, brown PT is supposed to prevent some contact decay, but if you really want to stop rot, it needs to be kept dry all the time. Can't use chemicals that really work, the EPA would have a hemorrhage.
In the last bunch of years I have taken to painting my posts with Henry's roof patch to surface level and putting sand/gravel in the bottom of the post hole with the post touching that. Havent had any rot since.
Oh and I try to re use the concrete hole filler after removing the old post fluff.
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casual notes from the underground:There are some "experts" out there that in reality don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
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04-04-2023, 01:52 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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His method of extracting the post whole with that simple setup almost never works because the concrete slug extends out too far. Ask me how I know.
I had to build a bridge that extended beyond the width of the slug and lever off that, and whatever moron put the post in used 2 bags of concrete. I don't even like concrete for wooden posts because it just creates a PITA down the road and probably rots the post quicker.
Sometimes I can reuse the concrete slug if the post is rotten enough it pulls out. Then I just taper the next post and hammer it into the hole.
His fix will be very temporary as some posts failing is just an indicator that the rest are not far behind. I've repaired my fence 3x in the past 2 years. He should be thinking fence replacement, but I understand the impetus to get something up immediately to keep the dogs out.
I don't even know why people use wooden fence posts since they only last 15 years. Metal is the way to go. Probably saved $100 in the initial install or something stupid. Just like wiring garages with a 15 amp circuit instead of 20. Saved $35 in copper so now the outlets are useless for power tools.
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04-04-2023, 01:58 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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I hear you on metal or 2" water pipe posts, but sometimes you're stuck having to use wood, because.....
Only issue with metal thats bad is when something comes through your fence and you have to replace posts, then you gotts pull the concreta also
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casual notes from the underground:There are some "experts" out there that in reality don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
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04-04-2023, 02:09 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko
I hear you on metal or 2" water pipe posts, but sometimes you're stuck having to use wood, because.....
Only issue with metal thats bad is when something comes through your fence and you have to replace posts, then you gotts pull the concreta also
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Metal in concrete is the same problem as wood in concrete though.
Is concrete necessary with metal, or can you use sand?
... and whoever has come through my fence is going to pay to fix it... except I'll probably take the check and fix it myself.
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04-04-2023, 02:17 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Ehhh: galvanized pipe so far lasted 20 years but I leave the bottom open to drain. Typically after 20 years I tend to move so it becomes irrelevant. Direct pounding it into dirt I haven't tried for longevity, but t post lasts that long.
Sometimes getting things fixed isn't worth the hassle of filing a claim.
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casual notes from the underground:There are some "experts" out there that in reality don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
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04-04-2023, 02:53 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko
Ehhh: galvanized pipe so far lasted 20 years but I leave the bottom open to drain. Typically after 20 years I tend to move so it becomes irrelevant. Direct pounding it into dirt I haven't tried for longevity, but t post lasts that long.
Sometimes getting things fixed isn't worth the hassle of filing a claim.
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That's precisely why we get garbage stuff, because the original owners are going to leave before the problems come up. The average length of ownership is 10 years.
Agree with the claim thing. If I can fix a simple wire fence then I'd just have the person that crashed into it give me $100 or something. If the damage claim would get $1,000 from insurance though, I'd probably go that way.
I remember my dad getting $700 for a wire fence once, and that was a long time ago, and we were poor so that was a huge bonus.
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04-05-2023, 11:30 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Misunderstood the comment about leaving. Last I saw the posts and fence panels are still standing even after a 70 mph wind, just that I wasn't maintaining them.
I like doing forever stuff, my wife hates paying for it
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casual notes from the underground:There are some "experts" out there that in reality don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
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04-05-2023, 01:00 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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I hate working on the same thing I worked on 2 years before, and then again 2 years later...
I'm undecided on aluminum decking, or some composite.
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04-14-2023, 12:08 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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As good a Xist thread as any for this.
It looks like one could homebrew something like this by cutting a steel drum in half. Or something.
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