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Old 09-22-2014, 04:28 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Very nice Bro! I miss mine every time I see one.

Keep up the good work.

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Old 09-23-2014, 06:20 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Thanks very much! I'm about to start on my '91. I have a head full of ideas for a micro-camper, and I need a bit of a tail extension for a display I sometimes haul around. I just picked up a spare hatch to build on, as the stock one has a great smoke job on it.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:51 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Very nice work.
I suggest three small screws to keep those hubcaps on. Trust me.
If and when you open the tranny, slip a flywheel from a 1.3 with clutch and pressure plate. Flywheel of 1.3 weighs 10 lbs. Flywheel of the 1 liter weighs 15 lbs. No modification necessary.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob View Post
Thanks very much! I'm about to start on my '91. I have a head full of ideas for a micro-camper, and I need a bit of a tail extension for a display I sometimes haul around. I just picked up a spare hatch to build on, as the stock one has a great smoke job on it.
Hope you'll post a thread.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:17 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StudeChamp View Post
Hello Ecomodders,

So I read MetroMPG's thread on final drive ratios, wanting to confirm that I indeed have a 3.52 final drive tranny from the Suzuki. I duly lined up my timing mark, raised the RH wheel (LH on ground), chalked the wheel, set the car in 5th gear, and turned the crank one full 360. The RH wheel made approx . 75% (maybe 77%) turn. This doesn't correspond the potential results in MetroMPG's thread as I understand it -- what am I missing? Advice, please!

I am going to post in that thread as well. Thanks in advance for your input.
As I understand it:
You went .77 rotations for one rotation of the engine crank (1 wheel up).
That means .385 actual rotations if you'd had two wheels up.
1/.385 gives you an overall final ratio of 2.597 (insanely good!)
I think the 5th gear ratio in your car is .76, so... 2.597/.76 = 3.42
That last should be your diff ratio, but it seems a little low, maybe measurement?

So let's try your first estimate: if it's .75 rotations to one crank, then it's .375, hence 2.67.
2.67/.76 = 3.51, which seems like it's exactly what you were looking for.

EDIT: If you were at the stock 4.10 diff (I think that's right?), then: 4.1*.76 =3.116... (1/3.116)*2 = .642 rotations of your 1 wheel off the ground per crank turn.

Last edited by samwichse; 09-24-2014 at 09:23 AM..
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:35 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Samwichse, THANK YOU for the math. I couldn't put it together in my head (last math class I took was biz calc in 2003!) so I appreciate you laying it out. And I am even MORE relieved that I do have the desired transaxle, I didn't want to lose a day to a swap.

Sorry for the break in posting. I will get to the interior build thread soon! I have been tidying up loose ends on the car. The starter solenoid wasn't kicking over consistently ("click, click"), went through 3 starter swaps (thought I had a bad solenoid or starter, which wasn't the case) and started on a push-button start with relay (suspecting a gremlin between the switch and solenoid), and... it was the clutch safety switch. Oh well.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:51 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Progess report - tire pressure, turn signals etc

I found a MAJOR reason for poor MPG, namely bought a new tire pressure gauge and it turns out... I was running 20 PSI. Ugh. Amazing I even got 50mpg. Bought a handy roadside emergency kit at Costco for $30 that included the gauge and a slick 12v compressor. Filled the 13" LRR tires to 40 PSI (sidewall max 44, I want to see how they perform before I go the final 10%).

Other than the push button start, I am going to put in a DVD player with bluetooth... I do talk on the phone while driving, so hey, don't want to be too zealous in saving those last 5 pounds.

It's cooling off here, so I am going to pull the belt on the AC compressor. Johnny and I are already sketching out ideas for running a deep cycle battery and pulling the belt on the alternator, so I will be consulting those threads next.

I have been using ammonia to clean plastic parts and it works pretty well. Here is a pic of the turn signal indicator.

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Old 09-25-2014, 09:10 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Out of curiosity, what 13" LRR tires are you using?

Wondering because I was looking at getting some 13" CRX HF wheels for my Insight (they look too cool), but I hadn't seen any well reviewed eco-tires for 13" rims.
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Old 09-25-2014, 11:39 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Tires

Tires are Thunderer City 155/80R13. Read about the brand on Geo Metro Forum or somewhere ages ago, can't find the link now. (Maybe not actually LRR? Wish I had taken notes on everything over the last 2 years.) Cheaper tires from Les Schwab but supposedly hold up well even when inflated to near max sidewall pressure.





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Old 09-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Nice bro, hope the new .psi works your MPG #'s up some!

Can you give us some more info. on your moon disks/wheel covers? Are they clip-ons to steelies?

For lighting, i've always had great luck with using degreaser and water to the inside, shaking around for a minute, then flushing with water until it rinses clean, letting them air dry before re-assembly. Then polish with Meguires Fine Cut Cleaner (for deep scratches and/or hazing), then Meguires Plasti-X. They always come out like new. Maybe the degreaser I use has some ammonia in it?

Have you thought about an H4 coversion kit versus those sealed beam bulbs? Think they even make the conversion kits with projector beams inside now-adays, to (properly) run HID lighting. Personally, I like the recessed lighting. Looks a lot "meaner" than the flush lighting from the 90's. However, no it doesn't do much for aerodynamics...

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