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Old 08-28-2014, 07:36 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theaveng View Post
Doesn't that waste fuel when you're revving the engine up to ~2500 rpm, so you can reengage the clutch?
OMG! why would you rev your engine up??? aren't you coming to a stop?? do you rev your engine at idle? no! why would you do it when stopping??? it's really not that hard!

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Old 08-28-2014, 08:34 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theaveng View Post
Doesn't that waste fuel when you're revving the engine up to ~2500 rpm, so you can reengage the clutch?
reving the engine for 1/5 of a second uses less fuel than cruising steady state at 55mph.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:41 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theaveng View Post
Doesn't that waste fuel when you're revving the engine up to ~2500 rpm, so you can reengage the clutch?
Jesus, where did you learn how to drive stick?

It wastes less fuel than the fuel it will take to gain back the momentum you lost dragging the engine up with the clutch.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:41 AM   #54 (permalink)
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With my upper grill block, my transmission was not happy doing EOC in neutral with my automatic. I used to just EOC a short distance into my driveway to land and that seemed OK. But it didn't seem to like the 1/3 mile EOC coast downhill to a corner, 45mph to 10mph. The manual says it can be towed at up to 35mph for a limit of 50 miles. The OD off light is coding every time now after about 5 min from start. The OD drive seems to work fine and I can't perceive any difference. I am trying to get more specifics on the code. I think it is tranny overtemp. The engine never overheats with the grill block and WAI.
Also my power stearing seems worse now. I have reduced my grill block in front of the tranny cooler for now, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. This panther is worth $2,500 and a fun test vehicle. I wouldn't EOC with the $30,000 panther I have
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:08 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I'd check if it requires having the engine on and if it requires having the car idle before moving again.

As for the person with an issue with coasting in neutra, here's an approximate hierarchy of methods, from best to worst from the ecodriving guide.

1) coasting in neutral, engine off (ie. roll to a stop);
2) coasting in neutral, engine idling;
3) regenerative coasting (hybrid vehicles)
4) regenerative braking (hybrid vehicles)
5) coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a certain engine RPM)
6) conventional friction braking (non-hybrid or hybrid)
My car will coast down to 700 RPM or roughly 15 MPH in 5th gear according to my oxygen sensor (stays lean until about then so the oxygen sensor may just be cold,) YMMV.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:18 PM   #56 (permalink)
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TO ALL:PLEASE when posting about 'coasting in neutral' state if you are referring to an automatic or standard!!!!!!!!!!

I would NEVER coast in neutral with engine off and an automatic.
Actually, I would NEVER coast w/ engine off PERIOD, but to each his own if you have a standard.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:44 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
Quote:
Doesn't that waste fuel when you're revving the engine up to ~2500 rpm, so you can reengage the clutch?
Jesus, where did you learn how to drive stick?
irrelevant. I asked a reasonable question & you lashed out with an attack. As teachers often say, "There is no such thing as a wrong question."
Quote:
It wastes less fuel than the fuel it will take to gain back the momentum you lost dragging the engine up with the clutch.
I guess.....

Anybody have numbers to show difference between different techniques? Rev-matching vs. using the clutch to "drag" the engine back to speed?
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:25 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theaveng View Post

Anybody have numbers to show difference between different techniques? Rev-matching vs. using the clutch to "drag" the engine back to speed?
Here you go:
Driving technique: exploring 'Pulse and Glide' - MetroMPG.com

which leads to...

Coasting experiment: engine off VS. engine idling - MetroMPG.com
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:28 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theaveng View Post
Doesn't that waste fuel when you're revving the engine up to ~2500 rpm, so you can reengage the clutch?
also, its a "throttle blip" to 2500 rpm.

NOT

constant throttle at 2500 rpm.

It sounds like there is a mis-communication/misunderstanding regarding this matter. Are you familiar with rev matching/down shifting in manual cars?
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:47 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I was trying to figure out where the current topic started and I went back a couple of pages to:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
Rev-matching FTW.
and then:
Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Improve your technique, and match the revs by careful throttle application.

If you do it right, the car won't slow down, nor lurch ahead, and the extra wear will be utterly minimal.
Euromodder actually brought this up twenty-six months ago after my second post: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post314630

Jedi Sol, those are excellent articles, very well-written and informative. The author seems like an all-around great guy! However, I believe that Theaveng asked about rev-matching, instead of allowing the clutch to do it, and I must have missed that part of those articles.

I am pretty sure that I do not rev-match. Where is my cone of shame?

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