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Old 09-01-2016, 11:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yeah, I've verified it works.

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Old 09-01-2016, 11:20 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Congrats on a unique solution.

Does your connection short those when installed and then restores the circuit when unplugged?

Did you do it with the IPU lid off?
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I shorted the fan at the connector going into it. There are 4 wires, and I took a paperclip and shorted the two non-power wires together, while powering the +12v and ground with a PC power supply. Granted, it's an inelegant solution, but this was the first time it was balanced... ever. I don't expect to charge it often.
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Did you do it with the IPU lid off?
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S Keith View Post
Did you do it with the IPU lid off?
Charge it? No, I realized the lid is essential to the cooling system.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:07 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Just checking

Thank you. Through this conversation, I have discovered that shorting the PWM signal wire to ground causes the blower to run full blast on the HCH2 fan (different but similar). My previous attempts failed because I used a ~25W power supply, and it would just pulse gently. I hooked it up this evening to a 1000W supply, and it created gale force winds. When I put in a HF multimeter in 10A mode, it tripped off at 4A and started pulsing.

Can you recall the mapping of the connector? I suspect that by shorting those two together, you fed back to the tach ground vs. the negative power lead through the fan controller. I suggest you short the blue PWM signal wire to the 12V ground of your power supply. The tach cable is yellow.

I also tried with a 6A 12V PS, and that almost did it. Guessing it needs about 10A.

All of the above was done with a spare fan outside the car.

Steve
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:28 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks for clarifying which wire was which. The power wires were clear enough, but I was reluctant to ground either of the other two to the ground on the power supply, with my limited knowledge of the system. I'll try that when I discharge the battery next.

I had picked up a cheap adjustable PWM generator on eBay, but was unable to get it to work, even with sufficient power to the fan. My Kill-a-watt suggests the fan draws about 90w running full tilt, so you'd want at least a 7.5A PS.

I've found very little in the way of resources to help me with this, so I'm largely going at it blindly and seeing what works. The Insight has hundreds of pages of documentation, while very few seem interested in the HCH. I opened the battery box and just poked around, trying to understand what was going on for quite a while before I touched anything.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:55 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure you've effectively shorted both to car and PSU ground. Black is PSU ground and car ground since the fan is still attached to the car. By shorting blue to yellow, you have shorted blue to ground through yellow. IMHO, best to leave yellow out of it as you're grounding through the ECU.

7.5A is probably pretty close. 6A didn't quite do it. I'm going to shoot for 10A. Amazon sells a few for under $20.

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