09-13-2012, 01:03 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: miami fl
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increase f350 mpg
hello every one currently i have a 99 f350 4x4 with a 7.3, it has 4.10 gears open dif front rear automatic built with a 1200 rpm stall, 4" turbo back and a ts performance chip and i run amsoil in everything diff trans and engine. i understand this is a heavy truck currently i drive it real easy try not to go over 65 especially if i am pulling. i own a small company in Miami where i mainly do weld repairs and hydraulic work on industrial equipment. my truck has my compressor welder and alot of tools . when i first got the truck with all my tools i was only getting about 10 mpg, then i put exhaust and chip and still only averaged about 11 mixed driving. Then my trans went out and i built with a very low stall 1200 rpm and upgraded the valve body with a nice shift kit and bam i started avg about 14 which led me to believe it was just efficient before at putting the power to the wheels. now my question is what can i do to get about 16 mpg. currently i am getting about 430 miles to a tank where i would like to be around 480, 500, i drive about 600 miles a week some times more and every little bit counts especially with the rising cost of everything now a days. btw i purchase the bio already made from a company locally here who gets it from a refinery since i dont have time to make it. sorry for the long post every body
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09-13-2012, 01:50 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: slo county ca.
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build an aero bed cover ,it should provide some mpg improvement and keep your tools covered/safe when your away from the truck. a win win and low cost.
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09-13-2012, 05:48 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Sounds like water injection might be able to help you there.
But you really need to lose the 4.10 rear gears they are killing you.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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09-13-2012, 07:05 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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The Dirty330 Modder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North East Ohio, USA
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don't forget about an air dam they seem to have better affects on trucks
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"The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing."
- Henry Ford
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09-13-2012, 08:00 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon
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Wow, 14 is bad for a diesel. Must be a lot of stop and go? If so, loose as much weight as possible. Oil Pan had the best advise, which is loosing the 4.10 gears.
Oh, and stop using the brakes!
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09-13-2012, 11:23 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: miami fl
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I think the problem is the 7.3l, big and inefficient. i cant lose wieght i have to carry my tools and equipment im going to see if i swap over to 3.73, i also want to try a different tuner to see if i get any results, and yes i do alot of stop and go, unfortunately i dont have a choice has any one messed with lpg injection on diesels here?
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09-13-2012, 01:32 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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I tried propane injection back in 2006.
It was ok.
But wish I had started experementing with water and water alcohol injection instead.
Disable your EGR if you still have it, or better yet disable it on demand, it may aid in winter warm up, other than that they are no good.
Take a sawsall your soot trap if you have it. Make sure you have at least a 3 inch free flowing exhaust. I recomend a straight pipe for turbo diesels that side exits forward of the rear wheel if its legal or if you know you can get away with it in FL.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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09-13-2012, 02:48 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
I tried propane injection back in 2006.
It was ok.
But wish I had started experementing with water and water alcohol injection instead.
Disable your EGR if you still have it, or better yet disable it on demand, it may aid in winter warm up, other than that they are no good.
Take a sawsall your soot trap if you have it. Make sure you have at least a 3 inch free flowing exhaust. I recomend a straight pipe for turbo diesels that side exits forward of the rear wheel if its legal or if you know you can get away with it in FL.
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A '99 shouldn't have EGR or a DPF.
Hey, monster, can you create a vehicle profile for your truck? That was we can see more details of what you're drivng.
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Diesel Dave
My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".
1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg
BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html
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09-13-2012, 07:17 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: miami fl
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i updated my sig with my truck info
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99 f350, diesel 7.3 auto 4x4 with 1200 rpm triple disk converter, ts perfromance chip, 4" turbo back exhaust, 4:10 gears trucks weight with me in it is 8100# its a work/daily vehicle
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09-13-2012, 07:22 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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The Dirty330 Modder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North East Ohio, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monster76
i updated my sig with my truck info
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I'd recommend going into our garage and adding your truck to it. This way you can track your fuel log, and then every1 can see your truck, the mods to the truck and your fuel economy
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"The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing."
- Henry Ford
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