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Old 09-16-2012, 02:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monster76 View Post
I installed the scan gauge and so far driving like i normally do, it has been showing 13.2 mpg but that was strictly city driving it go will go up when i hit the highway. And yes fuel is a big expense i can spendvany where from 700-1000 a month but it is part of the work
it may show 13.2 but it may still need to be calibrated so make sure you do the math at the pump. These gauges can skew results and with my past 3 cars ive use them in the gauge has always been skewed to give me better numbers then i was actually getting and i mean by 5-6 mpgs

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Old 09-16-2012, 02:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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We will have to see after i burn a few tanks i will compare to my hand calcs and see how it compares
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:37 PM   #23 (permalink)
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A pair of gauges would help. In the Cummins world it's the 666 Rule:

600F or less on exhaust gas temperature (EGT)
60-mph or lower in top travel speed
6-psi on manifold pressure (BOOST)

Big Dave and Jacob Aziza are both contributors with IH-motored Fords worth reading.

As to business use, be sure to plan each trip as well as possible. Mapquest has an option of re-ordering stops for best time/economy (as with the practice of FED-EX and UPS).

I'd pre-heat the fluids to shorten warm-up time as much as possible. Never idle and never stop (learn to drive all over again is the fair way to put it to your self).

Tires are big: commercial service highway rib (closed shoulder) as with BRIDGESTONE Duravis m500 when the time comes (or, r700). Alignment, brake drag and steering wander deserve your attention.

Someone will mention trans swap to ZF-6, but an auto is easier to live with when quite heavy in metro traffic (short periods at target travel speed versus the long periods on highways).
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Were you able to use the "direct" method with the Scangauge (rather than MAF or MAP based)?
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:09 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I really think you need to explore the water and methanol side of things. Snow is a big name, and they are doing a lot of advertising touting MPG gains. They also see a moderate 50-60 HP gain, but the breadth of their benefits in diesels is MPG.

With the 4.10 gears, you are turning more RPM. Slow down will pay divedends. Diesels make best MPG at or near their peak torque RPM, so find out what that is and stick close to it.

How about air intake modications?

If memory serves there have been some Diesel magazines that have seen HP and TQ gains + MPG gains, going to one of the upgraded oil pumps, and a set of performanc injectors. Yes, generally these are performance modifications, but increase in injectors is usually increased pressure and spray pattern, which should have better atomization and can equate to better MPG, if driving correctly.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:12 PM   #26 (permalink)
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• Provides better fuel economy (1-3 MPG), more power (50-100 HP), and lower EGTs (150-300 F)


Snow Performance : Diesel MPG-MAX
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The problem with snow is to get a set up that can spray nearly all the time is it will run you over $600.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
The problem with snow is to get a set up that can spray nearly all the time is it will run you over $600.
True, but he has already shown a willingness to spend money for the project, with the long term benefits for the return investment (programmer, and exhaust, etc).

One of the math whizes can calculate return on investment, for 2 mpg increase versus cost.

There are DIY "how to" kits out in the market, I was using Snow as they have numbers to back up their kits.
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:09 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Its not too hard to build your own water injection system.
I did.
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:56 PM   #30 (permalink)
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What is likely killing your FE is the dual rear wheels, gears, and weight in the bed. Probably in that order.

Back when, I added dual rear wheels to my new (back then) 1990 Nissan 1/2 ton 4cyl truck. FE went down by at least 3mpg from the extra 2 tires, alone. I latter did a gear swap to a lower set, to better haul the 6 pack camper and tow the trailer, which dropped my FE even further.

Reduce the junk in the trunk: My pipe line welding neighbor would be on a jobsite for a few weeks, then work as an inspector only for months. He felt he was wearing out trucks by constantly carrying 800lbs of gear everywhere he went, but only used it 20% of the time. He's a bright guy, and devised a way to free up the bed space for other things, but be able to quickly and easily convert back to 'welding mode' when duty called. He built a well thought out 'skid' that contains his generator and welder, and locking boxes for grinders and other gear. This skid has both a set of 4 lifting eyes, and fork lift pockets. He built also built a companion A frame hoist that he keeps at home, in his side yard, so he can lift out and drop in the skid at a moment's notice. The fork pockets are used to drop the skid at a long-term job site, so he isn't lugging that stuff back and forth everyday.

Not a bad system, something to consider.

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