08-27-2012, 09:57 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I thought the point of adding dihydrogen monoxide was to take advantage to its unique thermal expansion property. Not use it's hydrogen atoms as a fuel.
liquid water + heat from combustion = gaseous water (taking up significantly more space)
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08-27-2012, 11:00 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Basically.
Running tap water isn't going to hurt the engine a whole lot, but it's bad for the internals of the water injection system.
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08-28-2012, 07:01 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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My DIY water injection system uses an agro pump that can be bought off the shelf from any tractorsupply or northern tool and chemical compatable lines from lows.
Water injectors and control solenoids are made for tap water and alcohol mixes.
How is tap water going to hurt piping designed for tap water or an agro pump designed to pump tap water mixed with soaps, pesticides, herbicides and fertlizer?
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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08-28-2012, 11:54 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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In any water injection system you will have minerals build up and eventually clog it. Unlike a coffee maker, you may not have the option of cleaning it out with vinegar.
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I'm not coasting, I'm shifting slowly.
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08-28-2012, 12:05 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Basically that. You want de-mineralized water to prevent build-up on the injector. Some systems, like mine, use ultra-fine nozzle tips to ensure the water enters the system as a mist rather than droplets.
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08-28-2012, 03:36 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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If my water injection systems can handle alcohol, soaps, pesticides, herbisides I think they can handle viniger.
After using my water injection system for about 6 months I tore it out to rebuild it to be bigger, better and more advanced.
No signs what so ever of mineral anywhere.
But I run large nozzles because I need minimum 5gph nozzles, could go smaller if I ran a nozzle for each cylinder bank.
If you are worried about something hurting your nozzle tip then install a filter.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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08-28-2012, 04:09 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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For engines of my size, 1 gph is optimum. Lower would be nicer, but that's all I can get.
A filter ain't getting rid of minerals. To do that, you need to distill the water. Maybe your municipal water is clean, but our tap water is brutal when it comes to scale build up.
We use distilled in our injection systems for the same reason we use distilled water in the radiator. So we don't have to deal with the problems further on down the road.
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08-28-2012, 04:14 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
If my water injection systems can handle alcohol, soaps, pesticides, herbisides I think they can handle viniger.
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But would you want to inject vinegar/concentrated mineral scale into your engine?
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I'm not coasting, I'm shifting slowly.
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08-28-2012, 04:38 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I'm putting a dump valve into the new water injection system so I can flush it with out having to inject water into the engine. Then the only thing I would have to worry about would be the nozzles, which still looked as new as the day I bought them after months of use.
I see no sign of mineral problem now, any time soon or years from now.
That was kind of the entire point of running the test system, use it for 6 months and tear it down and inspect for material and component defficiencies.
So far it looks like everything I used is up to the task, considering all the major componets were bench tested for a week before installing and are made from brass, stainless steel, synthetic rubber or plastic its no surprize.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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08-29-2012, 04:24 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I did construct an active charcoal and calcium inhibitor filter rig for my pressure washer about the same time I removed the water injection system.
The problem with washing cars at home was they would still look dirty when the water dried, now with the charcoal and calicium inhibitor filter they look a lot better.
The calcium inhibitor canister is made for water mist systems, to keep hard water mineral from building up on near by surfaces and clogging mist nozzles.
Point is the charcoal and calcium inhibitor can very easily be used to fill my water tank at home.
I pulled the water injection system while the turbo install was going on. One thing I had to do when putting on the turbo is remove my upper intake plenum and reinstall it backwards. There was no mineral build up in the upper or lower intake manifold and I have ran at least 200 gallons of tap water through it from truck stops all over I-40 since I put it on.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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