This is killing me!

[BHarvey]

Originally Posted by Thymeclock

I have the same problem. Short trips in winter = cold operation = lousy gas mileage.

The most effective solution (that is also easiest and cheapest) is to do a full radiator block. On some cars you can simply slide a piece of cardboard in the space in front of the radiator. I'm lucky in that the cardboard will stay there unsupported, and it is easy to insert and remove, taking only seconds to do it.

Another option is to make a warm air plenum that will route engine heat to the airbox. I'm working on one for one of my cars and will post a thread about it soon.

Already have a hot air intake using a K&N Apollo set with Airraid tubing.
Need to insulate it as my AIT rises as the intake tubing temp rises.
I have the snorkel 1" above my exhaust manifold and you would think you would get hot air immediately, but no.

The AIT gets to 50+ over ambient in that 5 mile drive to work.

The stock intake took much longer to heat up, but it was a LOT more mass to heat before giving hot air. The lower block helped it heat up quicker, but it's no where near as good as the current set up in terms of heat/time ratio!

I will insulate it very shortly though.

With the exception of about 6" of snorkel hose, the entire intake track is directly behind the shroud opening for the radiator, so when the lower grill is open it gets cold air blowing over the intake track and cools itself down.

It gets the AIT cooler the more you press the gas. Coasting heats it back up.

Looks to have made a 1.25 mpg improvement though, will know more with more miles on it.

[Arragonis]

I tried routing warm air to the intake but it made no difference, but a straight radiator block did. Its off now as the car is due a service and I have some warranty issues I want sorting and don't want any excuses from the garage.

There have been a few threads on WAI and similar experiments - will look forward to any new ones out there.

[BHarvey]

Originally Posted by Arragonis

I tried routing warm air to the intake but it made no difference, but a straight radiator block did. Its off now as the car is due a service and I have some warranty issues I want sorting and don't want any excuses from the garage.

There have been a few threads on WAI and similar experiments - will look forward to any new ones out there.

My car is MAP equipped, which supposedly is good for HAI's.
I can tell you a couple of things about how much better it is when the AIT is at different temps.

First, there is a section of road I travel Mon-Fri coming home from work and it is less than 2 miles from startup, is on the highway where I am on CC at 58 mph.

With the UG showing the coolant is already at 185f, when cresting the hill it flattens out for a half mile and the AIT will be somewhere around +20 over ambient, the instant MPG shows 37-43.

When cresting the same hill after having driven for a while and the AIT is 40f over ambient, the instant MPG gauge will show 48-55.

At 60f over ambient on the HAI, it will show 65+ mpg.

Second, is when the coolant shows 185f but the AIT is at 60f, it only takes 50% load to get to 2 GPH burn rate on the UG.

When the AIT is at 120f, it takes 85% load to get the same GPH burn rate.

Unless the UG is lying, it looks like HAI works well on my car.

[Diesel_Dave]

Originally Posted by Cassem

Could somebody please invent a block heater that runs off a battery?

If this is really all you want, all it takes is an inverter. The problem is that it'll drain your battery all the way down. You could use a second battery and an inverter.

I've occasionally used a couple old blankets thrown over the engine compartment as well (basically Frank's idea).

Another, more complicated option would be a heat storage system. It's basically a thermos bottle that you can pump the coolant and/or oil into so it stays warm while the car is sitting.