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Old 02-15-2012, 11:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Digi-Key - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453CT-ND (Manufacturer - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453)

A light 5500K would give a nice warm (yellowish) light. I wouldn't suggest anything above 6500K because the ammount of blue tends to glare other drivers vision.

I am about to buy some of the linked LED's or similar because they are pretty efficient, and have a good light quality (little weak in the green) and a high efficiency AC/DC switching power supply to light my computer room.

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Old 02-15-2012, 12:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I found some vehicle LED replacement bulbs.
As stated earlier each 194 replacement will save at least a 1/4 amp.
I tested a sylvania 194LL, it used 320ma, the 194LED used 15ma. I am sure at 14.4v the 194LL will use even more.
I also bought 1156 (standard bulb for inside and out side the vehicle) replacement bulbs. Each standard 1156 bulb uses 550ma give or take 20ma.
The 1156LED I bought uses 60ma, thats a half amp per bulb.

All testing was done with a battery showing 12.5v (the volts you would have it you did an alt delete).
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A high efficiency DC/DC converter would give you a stable voltage and extend the life of the LED's for those that are using an alternator.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEnemy View Post
Digi-Key - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453CT-ND (Manufacturer - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453)

A light 5500K would give a nice warm (yellowish) light. I wouldn't suggest anything above 6500K because the ammount of blue tends to glare other drivers vision.

I am about to buy some of the linked LED's or similar because they are pretty efficient, and have a good light quality (little weak in the green) and a high efficiency AC/DC switching power supply to light my computer room.
At 20 mA those LEDs in the link are not going to glare any other driver.
3.2(V) X 0.020(A)=0.06W
They might be good for side marker or tail light if you gang up a bunch of them. I did not see the price but they ought to be really inexpensive.


Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
I found some vehicle LED replacement bulbs.
As stated earlier each 194 replacement will save at least a 1/4 amp.
I tested a sylvania 194LL, it used 320ma, the 194LED used 15ma. I am sure at 14.4v the 194LL will use even more.
I also bought 1156 (standard bulb for inside and out side the vehicle) replacement bulbs. Each standard 1156 bulb uses 550ma give or take 20ma.
The 1156LED I bought uses 60ma, thats a half amp per bulb.

All testing was done with a battery showing 12.5v (the volts you would have it you did an alt delete).
Where did you find them and how much were they? Especially the 1156!

Regarding the blinkers a few posts back: It's about $12 for an electronic flasher in auto parts stores. Looks like a relay. I actually bought one to test but I have no intentions to convert my blinkers to LEDs. They are simply not in use enough to worth the hassle.

Barna
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:45 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I found them at a Loves truck stop. They were made in taiwan
Cost $15 for 2.

Import style turn signals use amber lights.

A lot of US vehicles have brake lights and turn signals that share the same bulb.

If I had amber turn signals all around I wouldnt bother.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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$0.27 each, I am planning on using a pannel of 20 or so to light a room. The benefit I found is the lower power ones are more efficient and wont need a heat sink.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEnemy View Post
$0.27 each, I am planning on using a panel of 20 or so to light a room. The benefit I found is the lower power ones are more efficient and wont need a heat sink.
I have done similar in my room already except I bought the raw LEDs and wired them up a resister + 13.8v power supply. Main reason is for a night light that uses just about no power. I have 4 in my bed room and is plenty to see and use my computer at night. I have them setup for 7ma draw (20ma rated) and are labeled as "ultra bright". If I put them up to 20ma, they light the room fairly well unless you plan to read a book or work on something (i fix electronics a lot), but are too bright for a night light at that power. One thing to note for room lighting... either plaster a lot all over with a small angle, or get more powerful ones with a WIDE angle. For the normal lighting I have some 600ma rated leds that are similar to the CREE ones (160 degree angle), going to run them at about 100-200ma with a tiny heat sink on them.

For anything to do with LED lighting, it seems the wide angle ones work well for lighting areas up (rooms, car lenses), and the small angle ones are better for flash lights or spot lights. Another thing to point out is to check for a good rated LED if you plan to DIY install them. Lumans and angle will be the most benefit, but also note if it requires a heat sink. It is always to go too bight and lower the current than over drive the leds. Besides them running cooler at lower than rated power, they last longer and are more efficent (lumans per watt).
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I made an LED blinder out of about 90 small blue LEDs on a medium sized project circuit card and run them off 2 stack of 3 NiMH AA cells.
That was 2008 I think.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Found another good LED product.
At Lows I found 12VAC 1watt LED replacement array for 8-10watt T3 and G4 halogen bulbs.
I think it was $8 or $9.
Its a flat panel of LED cells, very directional.
The color is in the 3000k range (warm white), its nice and white with a bit of yellow. Not the typical light you think of when it comes to LEDs.
This would be good for universial fitment. It looks real useful for converting different things over to LED.
And its "designed and assembled in the USA".

Array Lighting - Premium LED lamp bulbs utilizing Selective Heat Sink Technology

Now since its rated for 12VAC, AC power is just a hair under 50% or less duty cycle and the web site says its good for 10% to 100% I have it hooked up to a car battery right now testing 100% duty cycle now, its been running it for about 2 or 3 hours so far.
The in back where its hooked up its 65'F the back of the array is peaking at 172'F with my temperature scaner.
At 12.2v when warmed up its drawing 130ma or 1.6w.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.

Last edited by oil pan 4; 02-18-2012 at 03:00 PM..
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Looks like I have a drop in LED option.
My truck has the older H4656 head light setup where it uses 4 lamp low beam head lights, 2 are aimed low and used as low beams and the other 2 are pointed straight out for highbeams.
For some reason there are no LED H4656 replacements.
I just have to convert my two H4656 "low beam" head lights to newer the style duel low/high beam H6054 lights.
The H6054 LED replacements are DOT approved. I just hope they aren't 6500+ k blueish stuff.

Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : 5'' x 7'' Rectangular LED Headlamp, Complex Reflector Optics

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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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