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Old 05-31-2023, 03:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Where did you remove the vacuum hose from? The hose has to have two ends, so connecting one end to your new vacuum tube thingy must mean that another vacuum nipple doesn’t have a hose on it.

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Old 05-31-2023, 03:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttrainxl View Post
Where did you remove the vacuum hose from? The hose has to have two ends, so connecting one end to your new vacuum tube thingy must mean that another vacuum nipple doesn’t have a hose on it.
It goes to a nipple on the intake manifold. One of the tubes is connected to the brake booster line.

IM vacuum port -> tube #1
IM brake booster port -> tee -> brake booster for one connection & tube #2 for 2nd connection
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Old 06-01-2023, 02:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I have several vacuum lines on my intake manifold and I’m not sure which ones I should be using. The brake booster hose is super easily accessible, and there’s another larger vacuum hose that goes from the plenum of the manifold to one of the runners right next to the head. Wonder if this is what I should be using.

When you say “IM vacuum port is tube 1”, you still have two ends of the hose. Is there a T on that as well or is there two nipples on your tube and you have an inlet and outlet? If no inlet and outlet, I wonder if that’s a possibility. It might smooth the differences in vacuum, like you mentioned, almost like a capacitor stores power temporarily.

How does this affect your braking? Have you noticed any difference? Have you hit the brakes hard?
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Old 06-01-2023, 09:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The brake booster hose was the 1st one I tapped into and the 1st thing I noticed, because I was on the brakes to leave home, was the brake peddle felt better. On the road brakes are noticeably improved. I was hesitant to use the brake hose because of concerns about braking performance but it actually went the other way and improved it.

as for which vacuum line to use on your IM... pick one, any one as it wont matter. As long as it is a direct connection to the IM and there are no check valves in between. Your comparison to using a capacitor is a good one

My recommendation is to use the 2" pipe that you have and tap it off the brake booster line. What I dont know is where the point of diminishing returns is. When I 1st started I had just the 15" piece that is aimed at the front of the truck, which made me think of the potato launcher joke. I had already experimented with the turning vane in the intake tube and knew the cause & effect so I pulled it, drove it for a few days to get re-acclimated to how it drove before that mod, then did the pipe mod. Being shocked at what it did, drove it for a tank and saw the mpg's jump similar to the turning vane (along with the bottom end torque jump). Once that was done I added the vane back into the intake tube and saw the torque shift back up the rpms some. No idea where that peak was. The next round I took the 9" section I'd cut off and added it to another un-used port off the IM. When I did that the torque came back down the rpms and it was pretty impressive at that point. Being greedy I pulled the air box snorkel off and the torque moved back up the rpms and it pulled way better in the mid range rpms.

So now I know that with more airflow thru the air box (same as the Ram - diesel), I can put that torque peak where I want it and move it with control over the flow into the air box. So like the ram, in comes the vacuum actuated exhaust cutout (boost controlled in the Rams case) to add that extra flow into the box on the fly. So under heavier loads & lower vacuum signals more air will come thru the box. My expectation is the mpg will suffer a tad bit at the expense of an overall improvement in driving experience. I'm OK with that as I've already gone from ~15-16 mpg on the commute up to the upper 18's-19's easily on mpg's.

So when I was done with all that (up to the air box mod, valve was defective, new one arrives tomorrow) I went after IM temps. They would spike into the 130's easily and impact performance. I took my favorite exhaust wrap and wrapped up the intake pipe. This helped to lower overall IM temps but it was still higher then I'd like. (they went from ~120-135 on the test drive down to ~105-120). I then looked at the engine and decided to insulate the 2 coolant lines you see wrapped under the intake tube. This further helped the IM temps from spiking and now I'm seeing peaks of 20~25* over ambient (mostly in the 70~90* range with some spikes up to 100~105*).

This truck weighs something like 4500#, has the worst gearing at 3.55's and the heaviest tires being an E rated 75 series profile. Performance wise all of the mods (70mm TB, larger intake tube and the vacuum mods) has taken a pretty boring truck to drive and made it significantly better and more fun to drive. The only downside in my case is the large evap leak code being thrown. I suspect it is monitored at the rise rate of the vacuum signal off the map sensor. I will eventually remove the pipes and verify that the CE light is tied to the pipe installation, then figure out a way to defeat the pipes at startup.

Please post up some feedback when you get it done, I'm curious to know how this works on a smaller IM. My assumption is your plenum is sized smaller overall which would make me think you wont need a large pipe to get the same results (torque shift move). Start small & work your way up so you see the cause & effect and can decide what works best for you.

Pic of my truck as it sits today, only addon is a retractable tonneau cover. I still need to add an air dam below the radiator support similar to what I did on the Ram.


Last edited by steve05ram360; 06-01-2023 at 10:34 AM..
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Old 06-01-2023, 12:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So you have coolant running through your intake manifold? Hondas don’t do this, so I’ll stick with the tubes for now. Not sure if a vane in my intake pipe will help much. It doesn’t really have any hard bends to speak of. Nothing remotely close to 90 degrees anyway.

How are you measuring all this data? Are you going by feel of acceleration to gauge power shifts? Do you have some sort of instrumentation installed to measure IM temps and other things? I have no instrumentation of any kind right now. I do have an MPGuino that I need to install, but it’s not in yet. My vehicle is OBD1.
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Old 06-01-2023, 01:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttrainxl View Post
So you have coolant running through your intake manifold? Hondas don’t do this, so I’ll stick with the tubes for now. Not sure if a vane in my intake pipe will help much. It doesn’t really have any hard bends to speak of. Nothing remotely close to 90 degrees anyway.

How are you measuring all this data? Are you going by feel of acceleration to gauge power shifts? Do you have some sort of instrumentation installed to measure IM temps and other things? I have no instrumentation of any kind right now. I do have an MPGuino that I need to install, but it’s not in yet. My vehicle is OBD1.
No the pipes to & from the heater core run under the intake tube...

The no datalogging for any of this, I dont have the bandwidth for it. I look at throttle input on the hills on the typical drives... on the way into work leaving town there is a decent grade that the motor will upshift into 4th gear and put along for a short period at 1300~1400 rpms, it will downshift for a short time, then upshift again and eventually repeat. The hill is approx 1 mile long & speeds are 45-50 mph.
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Old 06-01-2023, 07:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Update... filled up after the 3 trips to/from work. This tank had extra city miles on it, not a whole lot but those miles include a slow steep incline. 18.99x mpg. again this is up from 16.5~17 mpg...
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Old 06-02-2023, 05:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Cool. I bought the parts to make my tubes, but I bought 2" end caps thinking I had 2" pipe, and I actually have 1.5" pipe. Not sure why I thought I had 2". So I need to return my caps and get 1.5" caps. Ended up spending much more than I wanted to, so I hope this works. I ended up buying PEX parts for the nipples in the tube. They're threaded on one end and have the nipple on the other, and my vacuum hose I bought ($3 a foot!) fits over it well. I think. We'll see how it goes. I'll update when I've got it installed.

Right now I am testing my first aero mod, which is just a simple grill blockoff in the bumper, so I want to see how that goes before I do these vacuum tubes. I don't have any instrumentation in the car to track fuel efficiency, so its just simple math when I fill up.
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Old 06-02-2023, 07:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice! looking forward to hearing your feedback. What car do you have?

My suggestion would be to start with a 1' section, that is going to be a big jump for a 1.6L motor (iirc).
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Old 06-05-2023, 11:22 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttrainxl View Post
Cool. I bought the parts to make my tubes, but I bought 2" end caps thinking I had 2" pipe, and I actually have 1.5" pipe. Not sure why I thought I had 2". So I need to return my caps and get 1.5" caps. Ended up spending much more than I wanted to, so I hope this works. I ended up buying PEX parts for the nipples in the tube. They're threaded on one end and have the nipple on the other, and my vacuum hose I bought ($3 a foot!) fits over it well. I think. We'll see how it goes. I'll update when I've got it installed.

Right now I am testing my first aero mod, which is just a simple grill blockoff in the bumper, so I want to see how that goes before I do these vacuum tubes. I don't have any instrumentation in the car to track fuel efficiency, so its just simple math when I fill up.
Did you get it done?

I am going to be doing this on the wifes jeep JK next weekend...

Today I plan to implement the vacuum controlled valve on the air box on the Dak, looking forward to seeing how performance is affected.

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