Lets talk "Power Adders"

[SilveradoMike]

So what Im wondering/thinking about is power... I know in an internal combustion engine more power generally equals more air and subsiquently fuel. But... What about effiencey? Like letting the engine breath better? By means of less restrictive intake and exhaust? (Warm air intakes included) Or things a little more in depth like a very mild cam shaft? (Think like an RV cam) And things like E-Fans or A/C deletion or heck even an electric water pump. If you can make an engine work less to bring in air and exhaust air wont thag equate to more engine effiencey and inturn fuel effiencey? Im really contemplating a full exhaust system for my truck. (headers back) Are my thoughts off base or may be just need fine tuning??? Thanks this forum has be awesome so far.

[Viturro]

is true, better intake and better exhaust will give you better engine efficiency. better air filter, cold intake, etc. your truck have turbo?
better exhaust after and before the turbo gives it better response and performance, the problem of the diesel if that the turbo gets pretty dirty and the turbo slow down pretty much, if you have water injection you can clean the intake (pretty dirty too) and the exhaust to give more performance to the engine (just because it cleans the engine) and if you have water inj. maybe you can give to the engine more turbo pressure and maybe it consume less (for same power, or the same for more power, depends on driver), as new audi's tdi engines (35 psi i think).
Short exhaust after turbo is better to.

[SilveradoMike]

No forced induction for me, smog legal kits are far to expensive to be worth the funds.

[Viturro]

you truck is diesel? naturally aspirated?

[SilveradoMike]

No shes Petrol/Gasoline

[Viturro]

then... i have no idea hahaha, yes, intake, exhaust , filter, those things will help, too bad it isn't diesel.

[wmjinman]

Sorry if I seem to be "stalking" you, Mike. HAH!! I just tried to get a better (bigger) view of your truck and ended up finding this other thread you started.

Just this morning I was reading a couple of threads on here about air intakes, "free flowing" filters, etc. Seems the jist of it is that the throttle valve is the #1 restriction, and unless you're running "wide open", any other percieved "restrictions" in the intake path won't effect anything. If you were racing, and wanted better power (and possibly fuel economy for less pit stops, or whatever) while running "wide open", then "opening up" the intake might help. Otherwise, no benefit.

Similar deal with the exhaust; in the threads on exhaust, they're saying that unless there's excessive backpressure, you probably won't gain anything by a "free flowing" system either. - unless - - - same thing.... If you're looking for maximum power, usually at higher RPM (like in racing), then opening it up would help. Someone on here said you could remove a sensor in the exhaust system & put a sensitive pressure gauge in the hole, then check it while running. I can't remember the exact number, but it seems like it was something like 4 psi. If you've got less than 4 psi in the exhaust system, you're ok. But it might have been lower - maybe 1 or 2 psi - just can't remember.

But the "bottom line" is, unless there's something wrong with it (clogged cat. converter, pipe smashed shut, etc.) the factory exhaust system should be more than enough to flow the rates you need while hypermiling. Again, if you were racing, then it would be a different story.

As far as cams, yes, a less aggressive "RV" type grind may help. Although, since all the auto makers are required to meet minimum EPA mileage standards, their stock cams are probably pretty damn good already. If it was me, I'd probably want to do a fair amount of research before I got too carried away with replacing the factory cam to improve mileage. Someone on here who knows more than I do could probably advise better, though.

Electric fans - not sure. I've heard they help, but I've also heard that a properly operating clutch fan doesn't take any power either, so I'm not sure on that one. One thing I've often wondered about is, could a solar panel on the top of the vehicle add enough juice to your electrical system to reduce the load on the alternator enough to see a measurable improvement? With that shell you have, you've got the room for a much bigger panel than my litts Swift has. - but I dunno - maybe it's "unicorn" material.

A/C delete - well, just not turning it on "deletes" a lot of it. LOL. But of course, removing it saves the weight as well as the belt drag turning that pulley (even if the clutch to the unit is disengaged).

[Viturro]

...that means... delete the A/C or buy a diesel truck :P

what about some stirling engines at the radiator (?

[SilveradoMike]

On a/c delete I already removed the belt. But that was before the scan gauge and really even tracking mileage. I run hot (my person my body heat what ever you wanna call it) so even having the option to use a/c it would be on all the time. I typically only turn my heater to about the 1/3 mark when its below 40°f. In the summer yes its a bear for me without it but luckly Im in the mountains during peak hewt hours so it stays under 100°f most the time.

Solar panel idea. I have actually thought if this before. Yes my 8'4" by 72" wide camper has room for about 500watts worth of panels. Which in a high end lanel is about 20Amps. My system usually only draws about 25amps max. So yes it would eat up alot of the load from my alternator. Buy high end oanels are still about $3US a watt, so about 750 bucks plus a charge controller which for a decent one can run about $200US. Almost $1000US to basically "delete" the alternator... I think it would take a decade to pay for it self, even at the rate I drive.

Stalking me... Its fine by me I dont mind. I appreciate the input.

On intake/exhaust I was thinking at the loads Im under constantly it would help a measureable amount. Ive seen my scangauge at 80% load or more quite a bit. Please understand my normal cargo load is 750-2000lbs. Average is about 1250lbs.

You really dont think a more free flowing exhaust that is about 3 1/2' shorter then stock would be beneficial?

[olds455]

The return on investment for headers and full exhaust would be forever. My uncle is a power nut, like Super Snake and Z06 owner, nut. He is also a tuner. He believes there is little if any power to be gained from headers on the LS Camaros and GTOs. The only reason to install headers is for the sound. He currently only mods his exhaust for proper noise...muffler removal and Helmhotz chambers are the weapon of choice.
I will say that an engine you can hear is easier to drive for load though. You can hear what's happening. In my Buick, I can hardly hear anything and rely on the UG. There may be some argument for a cam change, who makes a FE cam better than the factory. The E fan should be plus though. ROI would be much better there. If you have a 4.3 V6, I don't have any info on mods, but I would probably not go down the exhaust path. Too much money.

The added cost of a diesel truck would pay for a lot of gas....