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Old 01-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The Crimson Crawler - '04 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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We have a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) not a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, so if you're looking for info, see what has worked for other MAP based ecomodders. 01 should be an XD (same shape as mine?). The intake has a resonator channel on it - you can remove the resonator channel and close it off, or you can remove part of it and use the rest towards a WAI. I've found (via ScanGauge) that the temps where the "butt dyno" says/feels that the car runs best is relatively low - 65 to 85 degrees F it feels like it has the most power for the punch.

If you haven't, change the ATF. There's a drain plug, and you may even have a spin-on filter (like an oil filter). ONLY use SPIII from a dealer - you can get it from Hyundai, Kia, or Misubishi dealers. Call around and ask what price they'll give you if you pay cash and buy a whole case - you can get it for about 1/2 price that way. It'll make a BIG difference in shift feel.

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Old 01-17-2011, 06:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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A WAI probably isn't worth your effort. Here's a link to my WAI experiment. Net result? No improvement.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? George Carlin
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yup, in 01 when the Beta II engine came out, they changed from the MAF sensor the Beta I (like my 2000) had to a MAP sensor.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sorry i meant IAT sensor wire not MAP. Intake air sensor right?
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Old 01-18-2011, 12:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The Crimson Crawler - '04 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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IAT = Intake Air Temperature. Yeah, you could poke around with that to change values. Sign up for a free account on Hyundai Service Website - it's basically a free copy of the shop manual for the car. It'll give you what the nominal values for the sensor are.

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