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Old 12-14-2008, 11:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
slip shifting = when you are letting off the gas, apply pressure to the stick as though you're shifting gears. You'll feel it slip out of gear smoothly, and it won't damage anything.

As you're coasting, you kinda get a feel for when you have to put it back in gear and start accelerating again.. so you start to slowly rev the engine to the speed you'd need to smoothly put it back in gear, no grinds, no clutch use.
Actually, you're likely causing wear on the synchronizers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
The synchronizer has to change the momentum of the entire input shaft and clutch disk. Additionally, it can be abused by exposure to the momentum and power of the engine itself, which is what happens when attempts are made to select a gear without fully disengaging the clutch. This causes extra wear on the rings and sleeves, reducing their service life. When an experimenting driver tries to "match the revs" on a synchronized transmission and force it into gear without using the clutch, the synchronizer will make up for any discrepancy in RPM. The success in engaging the gear without clutching can deceive the driver into thinking that the RPM of the layshaft and transmission were actually exactly matched. Nevertheless, approximate "rev-matching" with clutching can decrease the general delta between layshaft and transmission and decrease synchro wear.

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Old 12-14-2008, 11:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yep, except in the case of the person that actually knows what they're doing, the shifter will "fall" into gear when you're at the correct RPM. You don't need to put pressure on it.
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
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well I usually just try the matching revs thing with the clutch, but unfortunately I have yet to figure out a way for my scanguage to continue reading stats with the engine shut off, so the one I want to measure most, whether you really have to be sitting idle for 3 minutes or more to make it worth shutting your engine off. But either way the clutching differences should certainly help to increase my efficiency, at this point I will be asking around to see what different people think about the wear I would saving the interworkings of my car by driving normal or certain other styles such as slip shifting. At the start of this thread though I was strictly referring to popping the clutch in the getting the car started aspect, because I have not found a way to make that transition smooth at all, what particular tricks are there to make that smooth, or is it pretty much the way it is?
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:55 PM   #24 (permalink)
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To get it started, just use like 3rd gear, and slowly leave out on the clutch pedal until you feel it grab a lil, then let it out more. It takes some getting used to.

Like I said before, I have no problem with starting mine in 1st, but I don't care about the little bit of "shock" when the car jerks a lil. I use 3rd when there is a "drink-in-hand" situation... no cupholders in my car.
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
I use 3rd when there is a "drink-in-hand" situation... no cupholders in my car.
probably removed for aerodynamic purposes?


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Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
It's because he was pulse-and-gliding on the freeway, and I couldn't even tell when he had his engine on or not!
that may be another one of those things, given that I really don't have the experience and hypermiling is rather new to me, that I see it having a physical effect on the car later down the road that, despite saving the gas at the time, might negate or overstep the money saved just by how much the things take to fix...maybe daox has a better idea on the subject, but if your on the highway your having to start the car at say 50 mph so the starting it two gears above what you would drive at doesn't really work there, cause that would be 5th already, at least for my little 1.7L
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:13 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brekko View Post
probably removed for aerodynamic purposes?
LOL, no, it's a 88 civic. They never had them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brekko View Post
that may be another one of those things, given that I really don't have the experience and hypermiling is rather new to me, that I see it having a physical effect on the car later down the road that, despite saving the gas at the time, might negate or overstep the money saved just by how much the things take to fix...maybe daox has a better idea on the subject, but if your on the highway your having to start the car at say 50 mph so the starting it two gears above what you would drive at doesn't really work there, cause that would be 5th already, at least for my little 1.7L
Use 5th anyway, and slip the clutch like you're starting it off a red-light. You'll get used to it.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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My owner's manual doesn't distinguish between automatic and manual transmissions in the section about flat towing when it says you have to stay under 35mph and not tow more than 50 miles. I found a pdf of the page.

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...606O00285A.pdf

What do you guys think about EOC with the manual transmission?
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Old 12-15-2008, 03:39 PM   #28 (permalink)
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eoc on manual shouldn't be an issue at all.

When i am coasting and i want to start back up i pretty much always use 5th. I quickly lift my foot about 1/3 of the way off the clutch and then i push it back in again. Always works when the engine is warm. Even if i should be in 5th i will push it back in again, then i will match revs to where i should be before letting the clutch back out. This totally minimizes and RPM differences and wear. If you can feel the car jolting, you are lifting the clutch too far up to start it.
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:17 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brekko View Post
unfortunately I have yet to figure out a way for my scanguage to continue reading stats with the engine shut off
1. Are you switching the key back to "run" after you kill the engine?

2. You should have the SG set to "hybrid" as fuel type so it stays on longer when it detects the engine has stopped.
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:10 PM   #30 (permalink)
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i always use what ever gear i think will put me up to 1500rpm, cause my truck hates below that.

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