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Old 06-01-2009, 05:30 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Here a drawing of a possible solution for building in the overrunning clutch.
I checked the catalog from Formsprag.com and found that they have clutches in the 6200 series of bearing dimensions.
So if we take a CSK 2RS 6206 than this size fits like in the upper part of the cross section. The lower part is the standard cross section. By welding a piece to the center and turn it on a lath the overrunning bearing and the support bearing (6006.2RS) find their place.
The aluminum cover - green in the drawing- needs some additional ring welded to it and than machined.
Also a new (brown) ring is needed with the rivets to connect to the drum. A special nut with an extension is also needed.
If there is enough interest I will do the version with dimensions on it.


Last edited by janvos39; 06-02-2009 at 03:30 AM..
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:23 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janvos39 View Post
If there is enough interest I will do the version with dimensions on it.
Consider me interested.
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:06 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Alu housing



Assembly



Center



Outerring


Some suggestions. Take the dimension of the material that will be welded to the center and to the housing larger than on the drawing. After welding some machining is needed to come to the wanted dimensions. In general check the dimensions of your clutch against the dimensions of the drawing not sure all Suzukis are identical and there will be tolerances also.
For the overrunning bearing I suggest to use a loctite to attach to the bore and the housing. This can be undone by heating in case disassembly is needed.
The nut can be made from two nuts by welding a bush inbetween and turn it on the lath.
Between the two bearings a spacer is needed of 1 mm thickness.
I did not check the fit of the plastic cover. Probably a hole needs to made where the longer nut is located.

I hope this is enough to do the modification.

Jan

Last edited by janvos39; 06-04-2009 at 06:31 PM..
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I wish I knew how to interpret those drawings.

I will print them out and go have a chat with Dayton, though, see what we can up with.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:13 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Suzuki made modifications in the size of the drum for the rearwheel clutch. Older models have internal diameter of 150 mm on which above drawing is based. New models (donot know exactly when they changed) have an internal diamter of 160 mm. Basically this does not change the idea of the overrunning clutch, but the drawing dimensions have to be checked for the newer drum type.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:23 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I was studying the possibility of designing an overrunning clutch in the gearbox on the outgoing shaft. It looks very well possible and therefor I ordered the overrunning clutch from the CSK series. Soon to be installed. Than at every throttle close situation the engine goes to idling, no more engine braking.See what that can bring on FE improvement.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:11 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janvos39 View Post
I was studying the possibility of designing an overrunning clutch in the gearbox on the outgoing shaft. It looks very well possible and therefor I ordered the overrunning clutch from the CSK series. Soon to be installed. Than at every throttle close situation the engine goes to idling, no more engine braking.See what that can bring on FE improvement.
Kill the engine entirely for even greater benefits.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:51 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I entirely disagree. Because there is no neutral with a CVT or CC, a real clutch (as compared to a freewheeling sprag clutch) would require the operater to hold the clutch in for the duration of the glide. As I have pointed out in other posts, the throw-out bearing is sealed, without provision for cooling. It is not designed for long periods of operation, which increases the liklihood if failure.

A sprag clutch, on the other hand, allows instantaneous coasting whenever the throttle is backed off. Obviously, a gentle matching to regain drive force will have to be practiced by the operator to prevent damage to the sprag clutch or stressing of drive components. Still, for hypermiling applications, I can think of nothing better.
I know this is an old thread, but for those who are looking for such a solution (as I am), I plan on getting a new rear rim fabricated that will hold a Stieber ALF2D2 30-500 sprag mounted in the rim.

The ALF2D2 30-500 is a bearing-supported sprag, so the sprag itself rides on roller bearings, allowing one to support the weight of the bike directly on the sprag clutch. If you're planning on doing the same thing, be sure to get a bearing-supported sprag, or it won't work. Non-bearing-supported sprags can't handle much weight.

By using a sprag in the rear wheel, engine braking and drivetrain drag won't slow the bike down when the engine is idled back to coast during pulse and glide.

The ALF2D2 30-500 is plenty stout enough to handle the torque of a scooter engine, and if you've got a more powerful engine, they sell sprag clutches that can handle as much torque as your engine can make.

I just have to find a CNC fabricator who can make a new 12" solid-disc rear rim with the necessary mounting provisions for the sprag. Anyone know of one?
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:35 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Take standard 12'' rim, remove center spokes/plate/whatever, attach sprag to plate/whatever/mount setup, mock up wheel to find center while installed, weld sprag and mount to wheel rim.

No need to make a whole new wheel, when all you really need is a rim and you have a perfectly good one on the bike already.
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Old 04-09-2015, 04:53 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I like to contribute to this discussion on the overrunning clutch for a Burgman scooter.
I have driven with a sprague type in the rearwheel of the Burgman.
The results a\where Ok a considerable reduction in the amount of fuel used (about 10 %)
But it did not last very long roughly 3000 km. Than the overrunning clutch broke in pieces.
The type I used is mentioned in one of the replies.
I tried another one home made but that didnot last either .
I think that the overrunning clutch need to be placed in a shaft position where the rev's are higher.
Therefor i digged up the drawings that I once made for a solution in the clutch area. Here I will do my next attempt to make it work.
The last image shows in the top half the possible situation with a overrrunning clutch. The lower half is the as is situation in a Burgman .






http://users.telenet.be/janvos/burgm...clutchburg.jpg

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