Mini Mazda Modding (2011 Mazda 2)

[kafer65]

Cool find on the cobra ties! Nice and tidy so far! How much belly pan do the 2s have? I went 49-50 psi on tires but results and ride comfort may vary. Mirror deletes (done) and rear skirts(almost done) is were I went after wheel covers and scangauge. Hopefully, I'll have updated pictures on Silver's build thread soon.

[apc]

There's no pan at all stock. Just where it smooths out for the floorboards, between which is the exhaust tunnel. So I'm thinking an engine pan from the bumper back to the front crossmember will be sufficient.

Been playing around with how I'm going to wire the kill switch. I pull the ENG INJ fuse and nothing happens. I pull the ENG BAR fuse and nothing happens. I pull the FUEL PUMP fuse and it stalls out after 10 seconds. I pull the ENG fuse in the cabin and the engine dies immediately. Put the fuse back in and it fires up fine. Except the DSC light stays on and won't reset until the power is cycled completely. I'm going to have to either figure out if I can kill power directly to the injectors without freaking out the DSC or interrupt the RUN line from the ignition.

[kafer65]

You're dealing with a standard ignition key or a push button on that year? I'd to do the injector cut on mine but I'm confounded by the push button start.

Its cool to see that the 2 responds very well to ecomods as well as the 6 and CX-5. I have a belly pan to the rear suspension but the exhaust tunnel is open. I'm leary of flashing that in for fear of reflective heat melting the sides of the belly pan where it meets the tunnel. Maybe lawn edging would work 95% as well as trying to fashion a full pan. You're getting after it, so maybe both together is best.

[apc]

Key. I am going to be installing a push button tho. I figure a time delay relay on the starter line for an extra neat factor. The TDR would also make it easy to add auto stop-start later on.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Originally Posted by apc

Trying to figure out the best way to cleanly cut a hole in the pans for valve access. A clean round hole would be perfect as then I could use a hole plug. Currently thinking I'll use a hole punch to open them up then clean them out with a dremel.

A step drill will give you 100% round holes every time, like magic

[apc]

I saw those in my googling. But $50 is a bit more than I want to pay for a tool I'm only expecting to use once.

[oldtamiyaphile]

You should be able to get a lower quality one from an auto parts or hardware store for under $20. You don't need a great one for soft materials. You'll probably find a million uses for it once you have it, eg fitting reverse sensors, additional switches and lights. It's also just about the only way to reliably enlarge an existing hole.

[apc]

Ah but the problem is I need at least a 1" opening to reach the stem. I see cheap ones for smaller holes but 1" all hits $50. I could do a smaller hole with an extension but I want to use a hole plug to make it nice and pretty.

>
I just remembered I have a sheet metal nibbler at work. That's what I'll do - use the largest punch I have and just nibble the rest out!

>>
Hmmmmmm I found one on Amazon for $10. Hmmmmmmm.

[gone-ot]

Check your local ACE hardware store for an appropriate diameter circular hole-saw (drill).

[apc]

I've read horror stories of using those on thin metal. Plus I'm pretty sure the hole is going to be located in the curved part near the lip of the pan.

Just did a 16 mile jog down the highway at 60mph for most of the way. Came in at 51.3 mpg. Not too shabby. I'm surprised as it's geared for city driving - at 60mph, 5th gear puts the reps around 2700. Really would benefit from a 6th gear. But at 51 mpg, I can't complain. Now to see what more aero mods do!