Modding the Dakota

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Fubeca

It is not uncommon for these to shear in four wheel drive vehicles that get used off-road. I tend to err on the side of caution with suspention parts. I'm not an automaker who is saving millions by shaving a dollar off of the axle assembly I can afford a couple extra dollars for an extra margin of safety (even if it is small).

I'm not unfamiliar, nor do I suggest that anyone actually do it. That's why I qualified it with "if you want to be cheap and save $0.50.".

Madison -
You'll just have to leave the heater plugged in a bit longer, is all. If you're going to remove the mechanical fan, why not replace it with an electric one altogether?

As counter-intuitive as it seems, it'll be easier to lower the rear than to build the belly pan. I don't think it'll really matter which way you do them, though, unless you plan on covering the axle, too.

Even though it's only a 2004, you might need new u-bolts when you lower the rear. Not sure if yours have an inch of space left to play with or not (probably not), but usually better to just replace them. I've seen what happens when they break, not pretty.

[MadisonMPG]

Originally Posted by Christ

Madison -
You'll just have to leave the heater plugged in a bit longer, is all. If you're going to remove the mechanical fan, why not replace it with an electric one altogether?

What about an air dam instead of a belly pan? I will probably buy an electric fan later down the road, but right now i'm just looking at removing it because it's so cold.

[Christ]

What about both?

(Air dam and belly pan.)

[MadisonMPG]

Originally Posted by Christ

What about both?

(Air dam and belly pan.)

Does that make sense to do? I've not looked at the underside of the Dak, and it may be too hard to make a good belly pan for it.

[Christ]

On trucks, I find the bed area to be the most horrible, but that's bad, because the commonly accepted concept is that the rear third of the pan really doesn't make that much difference.

Yes, it does make sense to use both, one to limit airflow under the truck, the other to smooth what little bit still gets under there. They're complimentary.

An airdam is a good first mod, though.

Can't wait to see some pics.

[MadisonMPG]

I'm still in the research phase. I need to see whoat I can do, and what materials to use. I want something that can be removed if I have to, so i'm looking at some strong clamps or something.

[Christ]

Lowering the rear will be the easiest option, since it could really be done with just about anything that's fairly strong. An aluminum block would work, but you'd have to check it from time to time to make sure that the u-bolts stay tight.

[MadisonMPG]

Originally Posted by Christ

Lowering the rear will be the easiest option, since it could really be done with just about anything that's fairly strong. An aluminum block would work, but you'd have to check it from time to time to make sure that the u-bolts stay tight.

I was saying material foe the air dam.

I will need new tires soon, the old ones are 245/ 70 16. I was thinking a slightly taller and narrower tire, but still a road tire.

[aerohead]

A 1/2-tonneau like bow is doing on his truck,along with a cab-wing extension can get you close to the mpg of an aeroshell,and stil maintain the "open" bed.
I don't know about lowering the rear end.That could cause separation over the roof and would compromise any mods behind the cab.

[Christ]

235 75 or 225 75 is probably about the thinnest tire you're likely to find, and they won't be any taller than your OE tires.

There is an option (if you can afford it) to get adapter plates made to run 20.5's with LP tires, which are close to OE sizes for many trucks. Best benefits are 100PSI tires and one set of tires for the rest of your life.

Drawbacks include poor snow performance. Not a problem in your case, really?