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Old 02-01-2010, 08:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I also plan on removing the mechanical fan for the winter, and installing an engine block heater. I do have a question about that though, I bought a 1k watt heater for my Geo, but never put it on it. Is that powerful enough for the V8?
Here it is.

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Old 02-01-2010, 08:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm not even going to research this one, I'm just going to say "yes". The coolant capacity won't be that much higher than a smaller engine, (no, it's not double), and 1kw is rather high when it comes to coolant pre-heaters.

It's rather unfortunate that I don't park closer to the house, else I'd do something similar. I park about 30 feet away across the driveway.

Short answer - Yes.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
I'm not even going to research this one,
This makes me very sad

1500W according to this. 1000w would be better than nothing.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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1500W seems right, but there actually is no listing for a '04 Dakota in the last column.

And he lives in 'Bama... 1kw will be fine.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Can you weld? You either need to extend the spring pack's alignment pin by an inch, or you need to weld a new alignment pin onto your block and drill the spring side of the block for the pin that's already on the spring pack.

You could also just remove the overload spring, if you don't load your suspension up too much normally.
The easier option is to just buy a couple of alignment pins. They are pretty cheap and easy to come by.

Off Road Design makes a nice 1" block that bolts to the spring pack.
Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Wasn't aware that you could get longer pins than the OE ones (without a bunch of trouble that would have made it easier to just weld a pin onto a block and call it good).

Those blocks are meant for lifting, but I see no reason they wouldn't work with a spring-under arrangement to lower the rear, as well.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:21 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I've purchased them at the local parts shop. Spring shops will have them if other places don't. Some people just make them from grade 8 bolts and grind the head to fit the recess in the spring perch, or use grade 8 allen headed bolts.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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That's what I was thinking when I mentioned making some, just throwing bolts in there, and shaving the heads as necessary. It really doesn't even take a grade 8, if you want to be cheap and save $0.50. The pins are only there to locate the spring/axle, they shouldn't be taking any shear loads.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:43 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah, it's only going to be 20 at the lowest. It has gotten down to the low teens, but it's not important enough for me to go buy another heater.

As for the lowering, I think I will make the belly pan before I lower it.

grille block/engine heater> belly pan> lower rear
or
grille block/engine heater> lower rear> belly pan
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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It is not uncommon for these to shear in four wheel drive vehicles that get used off-road. I tend to err on the side of caution with suspention parts. I'm not an automaker who is saving millions by shaving a dollar off of the axle assembly I can afford a couple extra dollars for an extra margin of safety (even if it is small).

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