Not hitachi, unless the guts are. Which could well be. Has Hyundai embossed on it. Not the same though, as this appears to have finer windings compared to what they look like in the photos of the E-assist.
For the record:
It's body is 6" in diameter, and 6" long; mounts and pulley stick out from that, of course.
The battery voltage of the hyundai hybrids is actually 270v.
@56VDC, I was getting 1500rpm on the nose. So more like 27 rpm/v as a motor. Based on that and the original battery voltage, I worked it out to a bit over 12 ft/lbs @ 50 amps. I couldn't stop the pulley turning by hand at 12amps in to the controller(I'll have to try measuring the phase current under the same conditions).
Ok, so I went and checked. The current going through one phase wire was a bit above battery current. Around 10% over. Interesting...however the three of them work out with three of them compared to the input. Put on a better glove for the job and it went off the 20-amp scale of my multimeter trying to stop it, which I did not manage to.
Took a pic of how fine the windings are, while I was at it:
Which makes sense, considering the rated battery voltage.
It came with the plug with the wires cut off. They appear to be around 10 gauge, which was my initial indicator of it's current capacity. 10 gauge translates to 30 amps, but since there's three and current is always passing through 2 at any one moment, it would be *3/2 = 45 amps, which corresponds to 10kw @ 270v with expected losses.
Hmm.
Well, the fine windings explain why the ebike controller is happy to run it. You'll find similar thickness wires feeding my 3kw hub motor, which runs at ~40 amps continuous for rated power. More turns per winding = more torque per amp, less RPM per volt, again pointing to the high input voltage of the hybrid system.
More turns might explain why it's easier for the ebike controller to decide the position of the motor without using sensors. The two other motors I tested sensorless with had fewer turns...one being an actual 12V alternator, the other being a motor meant for an electric skateboard. They both pulled exponentially more amps spinning unloaded the higher the rpm, and would not reach full rpm, and the alternator would even spaz out past a certain rpm; the skateboard motor ran off little current and reached full rpm once I hooked up the sensors. I also have a large BLDC motor with super thick windings, which the ebike controllers would not touch...way too little resistance, took too much current to get it to start, so the controller would shut down to protect itself first. So those fine windings are probably key to my current "success" with it.
The E-assist has large conductors in it's windings, and appears to makes up for it with considerably more stators(seperate windgins) and poles, at least looking at it in the youtube video breakdown. Thicker windings, fewer turns, less torque, higher mechanical rpm...more stators, more torque, lower mechanical rpm. Results? Able to take a stupid amount of current, put out a lot of torque (since each winding is only trying to push/pull the rotor a much smaller distance), at the cost of running at a much higher electrical rpm - more switching - and having to use more robust transistors to handle the current that would be drawn by the much lower winding resistance. (Same issue I have trying to drive the aforementioned motor that the ebike controllers won't touch)
So, where does that leave us? E-assist for ultimate power, Hyundai for ease of controller/component cost? Something like that.
I can run this $63(US, plus shipping) motor with a $50 ebike controller (that runs in 10s of amps), rather than spend hundreds on the motor(no $100 units that will ship to Canada, or I'd have one already!) and hundreds more on a controller(that would need to run in 100s of amps, just to handle starting it...correct me if I'm wrong!).
Of course, there are drawbacks...if you were to do your own mild hybrid with the motor connected to your engine via the pulley, the engine revving up would raise the voltage going back in to the controller to the point of quickly frying an ebike controller. I'm still trying to figure out how my insight doesn't push a higher voltage in to the battery than it can handle...if it's 144v at 3000rpm, it ought to be heading towards 288v when you hit the rev limiter. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong and the IGBT can actually stop it flowing back? I'd think the body diodes would just make it act as a rectifier and as soon as the motor votlage is higher than the battery voltage, it would start pushing it back in to the battery (charging) until it overloaded it. BOOM goes the dynamite-shaped battery sticks!
Huh. Err. Gonna have to test that theory. Maybe all you need are mosfets that can handle the motor's back emf, not a whole system that runs higher. Dah.
So, yeah...you want a motor for something that isn't going to over-rev, like an all electric small vehicle (motorcycle, whatever else), no problem. Or forget regeneration and throw in a one-way clutch. Or otherwise have it connect directly to a wheel, where it will only over-rev if you exceed the speed you designed it to max out at. VHATEVA YA VANT!
It's a compact, cheap, easy to run motor for it's price, with potential to make lots of power, if run right...just what I was looking for, for some of my projects.
Edit: Just tested it, by driving the motor with my drill and checking the coltage at the controller's battery wires(not hooked up to a battery)...yup! 42 volts. Good to know. Maybe IGBT's work differently? Maybe it's different when it's powered up and can turn them on and off? (doubt it. Ever seen an e-bike rev up past its max (battery) rpm going down a hill? Me neither...you hit a wall!). HmmMMMmmmm...I suppose they might just disconnect the battery via the contactor when the voltage gets too high. Dunno. DUH-NO.
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@200-odd volts, so good for about 50 amps (at whatever voltage up to 200 that you can supply) continuous. Brushless DC. Water cooled. Weighs in at all of 27lbs. It's a couple of inches bigger in each dimensions than a standard, full-size alternator.
