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Old 04-08-2015, 03:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I remember my last house with its Lowest Bidder water heater...I ended up-

-wrapping it with so much insulation that I filled the closet it was in

-wrapping all the pipes twice, once with 1 inch and again with 1.5 and Gorilla tape

-turning down the thermostat until it was safe to run Hot only in the showers (having to mix Cold water into your Hot is just plain inefficient), and

-left the heater on all the time with no timer.

Now i'm in a Jayco travel trailer with a 15 gallon gas/electric tank, which I can't insulate further due to the pilot light and internally-routed hoses....so now my routine is-

-hey, I need Hot water! (flip switch on wall)
-wait 10 minutes
-use water, flip switch off

So....sort of timing these days...

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Old 04-09-2015, 10:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703 View Post
In the case of just increasing the water temperature to save hot water this will decrease the amount of hot water used but the cost of heating it is higher and the losses in the hot water pipes become much higher. (also you will have to adjust the temperature as you shower because it will take much longer for the hot water pipes to get up to the full temp) So you will end up spending more but you won't run out of hot water as easily.
After reading this again, I am a bit flustered. Are you saying that to save money, it is smarter to have a low-flow shower head, or a high-flow one?

I understand the theory of a low flow head needing higher water temperature. My water heater is a pain to get to, and I don't want to have to crawl back to light the pilot twice a day, so I just leave it on. Am I better off leaving the old high-flow head on, or turning the temperature up and installing the low-flow head?
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:29 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven7 View Post
After reading this again, I am a bit flustered. Are you saying that to save money, it is smarter to have a low-flow shower head, or a high-flow one?

Am I better off leaving the old high-flow head on, or turning the temperature up and installing the low-flow head?
It is always smarter to save hot water, so a low flow head will always win even if you have to turn up the temperature a few degrees.

AKA the QTY of hot water is more important than its temp.

But try it as-is with the low flow before messing with the temperature.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I noticed the same thing as the OP about the cost of the hot water heaters has gone to the moon. I am already waiting on the demise of my current water heater so that I can replace it with something far more efficient. In the mean time I had some of that reflective bubble wrap insulation around the house with some of the reflective tape for it and I made a wrap for my water heater and it does seem to help a little, but not enough to write home to mom about! LOL

When I go to replace this heater I will take a look a the latest data comparing the on-demand units with the latest gas tank units that are using timers and electronic ignition systems to only heat water when it is needed. If I were staying in this house longer term I would look for a unit that has the solar hot water feed and look at going that route, but since I don't plan on staying here that will go in my next home. I think the last data I had seen showed that the intelligent tank systems are even more efficient than the on demand systems, but I haven't shopped in a few years so I am not sure if that is still the case or not... Either way it is CRAZY expensive...

Do the tank insulators work? Yes, they do help and it really is a no brainer thing to do. I would just make a blanket yourself. It wasn't hard. Just make sure to stay away from the exhaust, pilot lights and make sure you have plenty of air flow... :-D
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Two things I want to add here.

First, back in the 1970's Ohio State University found that water heaters at 115 degrees f were prone to incubate Legionaire's disease. They also found that 120 degrees f would not support the disease. So keep the temp at 120 degrees as a low temp limit.

Second, In Alabama, the power co. (Alabama Power) and the gas co. (Alagasco) have a running feud. The gas co. will give you a gas water heater and install it for free if you currently have an electric water heater. And the electric co will give you an electric water heater and install it for free to replace a gas water heater. So check and see if the same climate exists in your locale.
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:34 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MobilOne View Post
Two things I want to add here.

First, back in the 1970's Ohio State University found that water heaters at 115 degrees f were prone to incubate Legionaire's disease. They also found that 120 degrees f would not support the disease. So keep the temp at 120 degrees as a low temp limit.

Second, In Alabama, the power co. (Alabama Power) and the gas co. (Alagasco) have a running feud. The gas co. will give you a gas water heater and install it for free if you currently have an electric water heater. And the electric co will give you an electric water heater and install it for free to replace a gas water heater. So check and see if the same climate exists in your locale.
Legionairs is in every body of natural water and I swim in lakes often, I have yet to contract legionairs.

True your shower vaporizes and spreads it around but if you aren't extremely compromised and sick legionella is in basically everything and few people ever get sick, except again very old, very young and generally people who are very sick.

So I guess thats my way of saying I could care less.
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Old 12-13-2016, 04:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Heating the place will be your biggest expense, so the timer is a very important component.

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