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Old 09-11-2014, 08:50 PM   #71 (permalink)
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No, if the transmission is in neutral the wheels should turn easily.
In my experience with cars on lifts... the wheels will turn... but not anywhere near as easily as the non-driven wheels. And the resistance (obviously) gets higher as you go on to cars with heavier drivetrains... I wouldn't panic unless one driven wheel is much heavier than the other.

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Old 09-11-2014, 10:27 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Let's hope it's just the brakes. I remember reading online that this particular generation of Camry had this ticking noise coming from the front of the vehicle.
Do you think that it did when it was new, just off the assembly line?

I don't think so.
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:57 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Do you think that it did when it was new, just off the assembly line?

I don't think so.
Of course not. I was referring to one of the "trouble spots" on this particular generation that comes with usage
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Old 09-12-2014, 01:58 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I thought CVTs had wet clutches or torque converters for starting? There's no way resistance would be due to the CVT...
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:18 AM   #75 (permalink)
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As far as the braking is concerned, I watch the instant MPG when I'm driving others' cars and there is usually a break-even point in neutral coasting where you're using more fuel conserving momentum while coasting than you would be simply slowing in Drive (DFCO). To brake after that point would be, in my opinion, foolish.

Also...

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If I can safely "coast" through a stop sign at 15-20 MPH with nobody around...
I know I'm not the only one who will tell you there WILL be a cop behind a bush somewhere and you WILL get a ticket that will invalidate your MPG savings for the past several months. Then again, I'm not your mom, and it's your chance to take.
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:01 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sven7 View Post
As far as the braking is concerned, I watch the instant MPG when I'm driving others' cars and there is usually a break-even point in neutral coasting where you're using more fuel conserving momentum while coasting than you would be simply slowing in Drive (DFCO). To brake after that point would be, in my opinion, foolish.
How long do cars stay in DFCO? At what point does the engine start propelling instead of braking the car?
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:58 AM   #77 (permalink)
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It varies from vehicle to vehicle, but if you watch the MPG gauge you can usually see the MPG decreasing with speed as you coast to a stop. When it starts decreasing from infinity, you know it's putting gas in. Balance that against your usual fuel consumption when coasting in neutral.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:31 AM   #78 (permalink)
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A couple of things I can add:

* I see no mention of how fast to accelerate. Because of the way gas engines are designed...with a throttle plate...it is usally more efficient to accelerate briskly...due to the fact that there is less restriction on the intake air when the throttle plate is farther open...WITHIN LIMITS of course. So you CAN have your cake and eat it too? This only works if you THINK AHEAD....and anticipate traffic/stops ahead.

* I do try to coast down to 25 at stops and corners...but I don't mess with neutral or shutting the engine off (auto). I use a SG...and can see an obvious difference in mpg in N vs D. But it's too easy to get sloppy and possibly get into the wrong gear messing with neutral...so I don't do it.

* For a while I tried scrubbing speed off on corners by entering them a bit fast...but this WILL result in inner edge tire wear....so considering the cost of tires...not likely to be a winner.

As far as auto transmissions...I always flush then from the radiator cooling lines....and also change the filter (no cheapies here!)/clean the pan. I also add a large neo magnet under the trans pan. I use synth trans oil...plus some Lubegard additive. This is preventive maintenance. Trannies are expensive to have fixed...and most can't do them themselves.
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:28 AM   #79 (permalink)
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A couple of things I can add:

* I see no mention of how fast to accelerate. Because of the way gas engines are designed...with a throttle plate...it is usally more efficient to accelerate briskly...due to the fact that there is less restriction on the intake air when the throttle plate is farther open...WITHIN LIMITS of course. So you CAN have your cake and eat it too? This only works if you THINK AHEAD....and anticipate traffic/stops ahead.

What LOAD/RPM ranges have you observed that yield the best fuel economy? It seems the faster and harder I accelerate, the worse my numbers are yet I stay out of efficient gearing longer by accelerating slowly.

* I do try to coast down to 25 at stops and corners...but I don't mess with neutral or shutting the engine off (auto). I use a SG...and can see an obvious difference in mpg in N vs D. But it's too easy to get sloppy and possibly get into the wrong gear messing with neutral...so I don't do it.

Ive tried both methods of coasting using D and N. DFCO aside, which I have, the MPG numbers are about the same, spanning from the 50s to the 200s...depending on the speed and terrain. I like D just in case I need to accelerate to make it through a light or to avoid an accident.

* For a while I tried scrubbing speed off on corners by entering them a bit fast...but this WILL result in inner edge tire wear....so considering the cost of tires...not likely to be a winner.


Yes! Also, the gasoline splashes around and is harder on your suspension.


As far as auto transmissions...I always flush then from the radiator cooling lines....and also change the filter (no cheapies here!)/clean the pan. I also add a large neo magnet under the trans pan. I use synth trans oil...plus some Lubegard additive. This is preventive maintenance. Trannies are expensive to have fixed...and most can't do them themselves.

I don't know much about transmissions, so I usually have mine serviced at Toyota with OEM fluid.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:07 AM   #80 (permalink)
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If you check the page on Elroy (the car) you'll see a BSFC chart that I borrowed that is for a similar engine as mine.

" *BSFC chart...vertical line lower left is typical CRUISING speed RPM vs LOD/torque values....middle vertical line is RPM vs LOD/torque values when accelerating at ~ 2100 RPM...oval represents RPM vs LOD/torque values when accelerating at ~ 32 TPS.

Shows that TPS at 32 to maybe 35-36 (up to 3000 RPM) is more efficient (most efficient = 245 center area)."

...

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On this chart the middle red line shows "efficiency" when RPM is held at 2100...typical easy driving mode.

The oval shows efficiency when throttle held at 32 TPS....more efficient.

I try to stay under or around 37 TPS...which I assume is in the 245 center area...most efficient operation.

If you look at the chart "areas" you can see that efficiency doesn't drop off much at higher throttle positions...so sometimes I'm up into 42 TPS or so.

Main thing you need to watch is whether you are in closed loop (stoch ratio) or not...my 03 Focus will stay in closed loop at pretty high throttle positions....whereas my 86 Nissan truck (1st year fuel injection) will barely stay in closed loop at cruise speeds...slightest hill and it goes open loop.

Another issue is extra wear and tear on the drivetrain...which I figure I compensate for by using synth oils and additives.

I've also found that if I slow too soon for a stop...I can still see some good mpg by feathering the throttle to 17-18 TPS coming up to a stop. Idle for this car is 16 TPS.

I also try to keep my speed up on corners...within reason...and can do this by using some rubber donuts (as tested in police academies nationwide)...one in each spring. This give much better handling than stock. Also tire pressures a bit over door sticker numbers.

Amazon.com: Superior 18-1901 Donut Style Coil Spring Spacer: Automotive

You put these between the coils....sometimes you might need to drill a hole in each end and loosely wire them to the coil.

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