Is it ok to brake after coasting towards a stop?

[XYZ]

Originally Posted by SilverCrown9701

That concerns me as well. I had my fluid changed last year at Toyota Service Center.

That's nice. Now do yourself a favor, and pull the A/T dipstick and see what color the fluid is and what it smells like. Tell us what you see and smell.

That is the best (and virtually the only) way of telling the current condition of your transmission.

[SilverCrown9701]

Originally Posted by XYZ

That's nice. Now do yourself a favor, and pull the A/T dipstick and see what color the fluid is and what it smells like. Tell us what you see and smell.

That is the best (and virtually the only) way of telling the current condition of your transmission.

I will first thing tomorrow. It's now dark here.

[SilverCrown9701]

Originally Posted by 2000mc

IF the lack of engine braking is the only malfunction of the transmission (I think it's probably a normal condition anyway) it wouldn't make sense to rebuild the transmission just to resolve the issue

Ah I gotcha. I'm truly sorry for sounding like a complete novice. I really appreciate everyone's feedback.

[XYZ]

Originally Posted by 2000mc

Guess I'm saying, I wouldn't worry about it. If it coasts as well in gear as neutral, it's very likely normal, and if this was the only symptom that it's broke, sounds like a good mod.
In addition to checking for brake drag, I might first find a nice flat parking lot, and see how hard the car is to push by hand.

That won't tell you which wheel might be dragging. To check each wheel, simply jack up each wheel off the ground with the car in neutral, one at a time, and turn it by hand. If one wheel is harder to turn than the others, check the brakes on that wheel.

You could also rotate your tires at the same time while doing the check, if you are so inclined.

[MetroMPG]

If your rate of deceleration is really the same in N or D in the situations where you coast, I'd skip the neutral coasting experiment. D will win out.

[roosterk0031]

I really doubt your N & D decelleration are the same, I request a retest.

It just can't be D w/ DFCO and N coasting without, coasting can't be the same. Maybe your Honda is malfuctioning and not DFCO's like most and going to almost neutral like my Gm autos.

If it does, agree with Metro and factoring in your car doesn't like D-N-D, leave it in D/OD. Either way the more you coast/less you brake the better your numbers.

[SilverCrown9701]

Originally Posted by XYZ

That won't tell you which wheel might be dragging. To check each wheel, simply jack up each wheel off the ground with the car in neutral, one at a time, and turn it by hand. If one wheel is harder to turn than the others, check the brakes on that wheel.

You could also rotate your tires at the same time while doing the check, if you are so inclined.

Ok thank you! I will try that this week and report back here.

[SilverCrown9701]

Originally Posted by roosterk0031

I really doubt your N & D decelleration are the same, I request a retest.

It just can't be D w/ DFCO and N coasting without, coasting can't be the same. Maybe your Honda is malfuctioning and not DFCO's like most and going to almost neutral like my Gm autos.

If it does, agree with Metro and factoring in your car doesn't like D-N-D, leave it in D/OD. Either way the more you coast/less you brake the better your numbers.

I will test again in different areas and see what happens. I hope nothing is malfunctioning. That's the last thing I need!


I think you meant Toyota instead of Honda :P

[Xist]

Even if one is better than the other, if your transmission does not like shifting, but your fluid and everything else is good, I think that it is better to use a little more gas and not wear out your transmission!

[RedDevil]

Originally Posted by XYZ

That won't tell you which wheel might be dragging. To check each wheel, simply jack up each wheel off the ground with the car in neutral, one at a time, and turn it by hand. If one wheel is harder to turn than the others, check the brakes on that wheel.

You could also rotate your tires at the same time while doing the check, if you are so inclined.

If you jack the car one wheel at a time you should pull the handbrake, the rears will be hard to spin then

I had my car lifted in N and no park brake on. Rear hubs could be spun with a finger. Front hubs were hard to rotate without the wheel for extra leverage, just because of the drive shaft and stuff.
We opened up the brake calipers to add brake pad return springs (from the OEM single one on the leading edge of the pad to a pair) but even with the pads visibly detached the front hubs were hard to spin.

If you use this method to test brake drag then you have to compare left front to right front and left rear to right rear, not front to rear.

I found my brake pads would stick occasionally. You'd need to test frequently.
The heat check is quick and requires no instrumentation, just some gymnastic skills if you have full wheel covers as you have to get behind the wheel then.

If a brake is hot you can feel it in the top of the wheel well too.
Waving above your tires is the ultimate quick check.