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Old 01-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #91 (permalink)
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That motor is huge! I wonder how much torque it puts out?? from what im finding a 50 hp electric motor can white smoke the tires in your truck.
I will try to pop in here when ya need answers, I have lots of hidden talents in these areas you now delve into.
You should be able to bottle feed that motor if you can crank it it will suck fuel.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:20 PM   #92 (permalink)
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The electric motor in the one video is NOT the one I'm going to use. That more was one of a matching pair that I was originally hoping to use, but it got modified (which didn't work out...) so the second one went in my friend's electric Ford Ranger - which meant there WASN'T one left for me to use.

I'm hoping to get and use a forklift motor similar to that one I showed in the video.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Yesterday, I finished up the basic fiberglassing on the flat foam tonneau cover.

I was working on it at my Dad's, but had gotten busy lately, so it was just sort of sitting there, wasting his space. I wanted to at least get the basics of it done, so I could get it out of there.

Today, I trimmed off the extra material, cleaned up my mess (I had a lot of tools and things over there) and brought the cover home.



I have an aluminum cap on my truck in the winter, so I couldn't just set the cover on the truck. Instead, I had to strap it to the top of the cap!



When I got home, I put it on the project truck. It fits fine, but it's still kinda ugly. It's lumpy and yellow and needs lots of sanding, Bondo, and paint!



If the bed looks funny, it's because it's removed from the frame and jacked up about eight inches.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:36 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Can anyone recommend software to help me layout a wiring diagram?

I'd like to start thinking about all the little wiring things I need to figure out for the truck project. Like IF in electric mode only THEN a DC/DC converter needs to be on to charge the 12V system.

I'd like to draw all those things out in some sort of basic, clean schematic, which I can post, get input on, and be able to share. (And look better than my pencil scratchings!)

I have Adobe Illustrator, but I'm really looking more for something that can automatically draw a line from one object to another, and have the line move with the objects if I move them. Some sort of flowchart software with icons for switches and motors and things would be great!

Any thoughts?
PS: I'm on a Mac, so no "PC only" software
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:39 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Can anyone recommend software to help me layout a wiring diagram?
...
PS: I'm on a Mac, so no "PC only" software
Hi Ben,
McCad has a couple free bundles, more elaborate than you probably need. If you won't be designing active circuits from scratch get EDS-Plus Bundle it lacks a SPICE simulator but can layout a circuit board if you want.
-mort
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:35 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Somebody here at the forums mentioned SchemeIt (SchemeIt | Free Online Schematic Drawing Tool | DigiKey), it's online app so you could try it without installing
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:47 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Hey Guys,

I'm trying to start to think through the "Mode Selector Switch" feature of the truck.

Basically, I want to have a three-way switch on the dashboard that will set how the truck works.

1) I.C.E. Operation: The truck just runs as you would expect on the diesel engine. Heat comes from the regular engine coolant and heater core.

2) E.V. Mode: The truck runs directly on the electric motor and batteries (with the manual transmission in neutral to mechanically disconnect the engine.) Auxilary systems that normally would run on the engine would have to be electrically powered, such as electric heat and a DC/DC converter to take the place of the alternator.

3) Hybrid Mode: In this mode, the driver can use either or BOTH the engine and electric motor to drive the truck. For example, I might turn the engine off for start-and stop traffic or use both systems for increased acceleration. It would require some method for manual stop and restart of the engine.

I need to think through the details of what components need to turn on or off under each situation. For whatever reason, my brain is fried right now. Hard to brainstorm all by myself at my computer.

I attached a drawing to show what I'm thinking, but it needs a lot more filled in.

Another thing I can think of (but don't know where it fits in here) is that I need to make sure I can't accidentally have the motor spinning forward with the transmission in reverse. Maybe I need a FRD/REV switch on the dash for the motor, or rig the backup lights to flip a reversing contactor to the motor.

PS - I made the attached drawing in the Evolus Pencil Software. I'm going to play some more with the Digikey software as well.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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Last edited by bennelson; 01-20-2013 at 12:54 PM..
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:07 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
Can anyone recommend software to help me layout a wiring diagram?
I installed Paintbrush on my Mac. I take screenshots of electrical symbols in Google Image searches and paste them into my drawings. Here's an example:
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:38 PM   #99 (permalink)
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POWER-TRAIN:
I've talked a bit about the powertrain, but so far, haven't been very good at visualizing it, other than with chicken-scratchings and bad pencil-sketches.

So, I took an outline image of the truck, and started drawing in where the Hybrid components will go. It's still rough (and not quite to scale) but gives an idea of what can go where.

As a recap, the basic idea of the drivetrain is: diesel engine > manual transmission > electric motor > shortened driveshaft > differential > rear wheels.

In giving it some thought, the existing fuel tank on the vehicle is larger than needed. On the short bed truck, it's 16 gallons, and it's 20 on the long bed. If I remove the fuel tank, it could provide some more space under the bed for batteries, and possibly the motor controller and charger.

I haven't carried a spare tire on my original truck in a long time. They always get rusty hanging under the back of the truck, and not carrying one saves weight (which improves fuel economy.) Seems like the space that the spare tire would normally go could be a good space for a block of batteries.

I was wondering about the safety of batteries there (due to possibility of getting rear-ended) but that's exactly where the fuel tank on the 2-door S10 Blazer is! A friend of mine converted an El-Camino to electric, and he had batteries in that same location (and under the bed AND under the hood!)

If I did replace the original gas tank with batteries/controller/charger, then I could put a small fuel tank in the bed of the truck. It would only be ten gallons (which makes fuel-economy math REAL easy) and not take up too much space in the bed. Since diesel pumps have a different size nozzle anyways, this would prevent me from having to modify the existing filler port. I would just fill right through the top of the small tank in the bed. "Fuel Cell" tanks usually have something like a 3" filler cap on top. I'd keep that on the driver's side, as the existing tank is, so that I don't have to get too crazy in rerouting and extending fuel lines.

I'd also like to keep that tank small as I don't want to loose too much cargo space in the bed. Part of the point of this project is to have a truly USABLE vehicle. One that can tow, haul, carry firewood, and move refridgerators. Eating into the cargo space starts to negate that. I might even be able to get (or make!?!?) a fuel tank that fits in the space between the tire hump and the front of the bed. That's pretty much wasted space most of the time anyways.

The only other thing that I'm not so sure about is getting at anything mounted under the bed. If I have a tilt-bed (like two of my friends with EV Pickup trucks have done) I can still get at the batteries and whatever else is down there. If I have a fuel tank in the bed, it would be much harder to access the under-bed items.

If you look at the diagram, you might also notice that some of the exhaust system components may have to move. That shouldn't be a big deal, as the truck doesn't have the exhaust components in place right now anyways. It's mostly pipes and a muffler, which can be put almost anywhere. They just need to be away from the batteries and fuel.

You might also look at the diagram and ask "Hey, where do you sit!? Isn't that motor in your way!?" And in a two-dimensional world, you'd be right. I'd also like to point out that this diagram shows the outline from an extended-cab truck. My truck is just the plain-jane regular cab. That means that the motor is not going to be sticking under the cab too far, but YES it WILL be intruding on the cab. And since the motor is a larger diameter than the output end of transmission, I most likely will need to get out the Sawzall and modify the cab.

Since the truck has a bench seat, this isn't looking good. However, I believe that if I swap out the bench for buckets, I'll have just the right amount of room down the middle for a "motor hump". Rather than welding in a sheet metal cover, if I hinge the motor hump, I'll also have a motor inspection hatch and an easy way to inspect and change the brushes. I'll just need to make sure to add some sound-deadening-material over the top.

So, take a look at the diagram? Does this look like a workable configuration for a DIY Plug-In Hybrid Pickup Truck? How else might you mount all the components? What are the advantages and disadvantages of this setup vs. others?

Let me know! All thoughts welcome!

PS: I am on Twitter, and keep that account pretty much just to clean transportation. If you want to keep up on all my Electric Exploits, you can subscribe to my twitter account! https://twitter.com/300MPGBen
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Last edited by bennelson; 01-21-2013 at 07:15 PM.. Reason: photo link
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:00 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Hey Ben, if I were you I would take the dc to dc converter out of the picture. I could usually go 3 or 4 days without recharging my accessory battery on my Fiero. Unless you are planning on not starting that diesel engine (which would recharge the accessory battery) for days, why do you need the converter?

Hondo

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