09-18-2014, 09:41 AM
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#101 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Don't you just love a replacement part that could potentially destroy your engine?
What were the ambient temps when you did the test, did you run the AC?
regards
mech
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09-18-2014, 02:22 PM
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#102 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Nope, still overheating. It takes a hell of a lot longer to actually overheat, but it still does. Sigh... And when I changed out the thermostat to the hollowed out one last night, I could reach in and feel the props from the water pump and they felt all there and intact.
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09-18-2014, 02:50 PM
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#103 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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First make sure it is bled properly and that it stays bled properly. The bleeding process begins from scratch every time you open up the system. If that does not get it to run cool, make sure the timing is not advanced way beyond specs. Once you get to the point where those two potential issues are corrected, assuming they need correction, then have the coolant tested for head gasket leakage combustion by products.
If you see bubbles in the coolant after it has been bled then suspect the head gasket.
This is why you bleed it repeatedly. If you bleed numerous times and still get bubbles in the coolant, my thinking is suspect the head gasket.
It's possible a restricted exhaust system could be a cause which can also be tested.
Plugged catalytic converter.
Didn't you buy this car from a forum member? Hard to believe the PO did not KNOW about this problem.
On the Suzuki GS 500 forum they are finding that improperly manufactured valve shims are disintegrating and that destroys the engine. The Chinese sell them cheap and now they are wrecking engines.
One of the almost infinite reasons why the cheapest part is rarely the best choice.
regards
mech
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09-18-2014, 03:05 PM
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#104 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic
First make sure it is bled properly and that it stays bled properly. The bleeding process begins from scratch every time you open up the system. If that does not get it to run cool, make sure the timing is not advanced way beyond specs. Once you get to the point where those two potential issues are corrected, assuming they need correction, then have the coolant tested for head gasket leakage combustion by products.
If you see bubbles in the coolant after it has been bled then suspect the head gasket.
This is why you bleed it repeatedly. If you bleed numerous times and still get bubbles in the coolant, my thinking is suspect the head gasket.
It's possible a restricted exhaust system could be a cause which can also be tested.
Plugged catalytic converter.
Didn't you buy this car from a forum member? Hard to believe the PO did not KNOW about this problem.
On the Suzuki GS 500 forum they are finding that improperly manufactured valve shims are disintegrating and that destroys the engine. The Chinese sell them cheap and now they are wrecking engines.
One of the almost infinite reasons why the cheapest part is rarely the best choice.
regards
mech
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I just bled it again and whenever I apply throttle, the coolant in the tube that's connected to the bleeder turns a whiteish color with micro-bubbles. Also whenever I try to bleed the system it keeps sucking the coolant from the bleeder into the dang recovery bottle. It's extremely aggravating.
How do I check the timing? This car has a timing chain.
No I bought it from a guy on CL. I took it for a 45 min drive the first day I went and looked at it, and it never overheated. Where I bought it from it's generally flat terrain everywhere. Considering it has to be going uphill to get stressed enough to overheat, I'm not really inclined to think he knew, but then again, who knows.
The car has a major exhaust leak where the pipe connects to the cat, it sounds like it's unrestricted.
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09-18-2014, 03:26 PM
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#105 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Also I have another question... Shouldn't I be seeing some sort of trouble code or something when I overheat? Does excessive heat cause pre-detonation and other problems that would trigger a CEL/throw codes?
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09-18-2014, 03:34 PM
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#106 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Shouldn't I be seeing some sort of trouble code or something when I overheat? Does excessive heat cause pre-detonation and other problems that would trigger a CEL/throw codes?
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205 degrees is not overheating.
My Camry overheated a few weeks ago due to loosing all the coolant to a hole in a bypass hose. I believe it had a code for misfiring. The code for overheating is P0217, and you won't get that until at least 240 degrees.
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09-18-2014, 03:41 PM
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#107 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
205 degrees is not overheating.
My Camry overheated a few weeks ago due to loosing all the coolant to a hole in a bypass hose. I believe it had a code for misfiring. The code for overheating is P0217, and you won't get that until at least 240 degrees.
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He is seeing much higher temps than 205*, in fact much higher than even 240*
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09-18-2014, 06:46 PM
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#108 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
205 degrees is not overheating.
My Camry overheated a few weeks ago due to loosing all the coolant to a hole in a bypass hose. I believe it had a code for misfiring. The code for overheating is P0217, and you won't get that until at least 240 degrees.
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Hottest temp I have seen so far is 248F.
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09-18-2014, 06:52 PM
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#109 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I think the "micro bubbles" mean head gasket. It did not over heat until driven some distance with no thermostat, hypothesis is the bubbles took some time to form an air pocket which led to overheating after running for some longer period of time.
regards
mech
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09-18-2014, 06:52 PM
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#110 (permalink)
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Not Doug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Hottest temp I have seen so far is 248F.
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If this is a competition, you want to beat it with lower numbers, not higher ones!
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