Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[sawickm]

Hi Adam,

Your SMT PCB's look good !!! Hope they test-out OK.

I'm glad to hear that the discretes are 0805's, anything smaller would be to hard to hand populate.

On the next version of the Revolt Controller it would be nice to have an output for BMS like "bigh" recommended. I have some info on a LifeP04 BMS/Controller interface that was supplied to me with some BMS PCB's that I purchased. If you, or anyone else wants information on a interface reference design for a BMS/Controller PM me and I can forward that information out. I can't post information here because the reference design is copywrited material.

I hope that the "DIY charger project" continues to complete the whole EV system !!!

Keep up the good work !!!

-Mark

[greenthumb25]

what do you think is the best way for the repair of a malfunctioning or defective SMD components on a Motor Controller like this? don't think i have the case for a professional rework...

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by greenthumb25

what do you think is the best way for the repair of a malfunctioning or defective SMD components on a Motor Controller like this? don't think i have the case for a professional rework...

Kelly Controllers are not repairable. They coat them in this adhesive junk that doesn't come off, if that is what you are asking.

[watt-a-mezz]

Originally Posted by TheSGC

Kelly Controllers are not repairable. They coat them in this adhesive junk that doesn't come off, if that is what you are asking.

This is true. I have been thru two of them, and the second one is in the house without the case on it. My suggestion would be to try to return it, or
buy another brand. Watt

[Weisheimer]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

I'm using 2 igbts. One as the switch one as the freewheel with its gate - emitter tied together. they are rated at 1000amps 1200volts. That rating drops to 800amps at a tj of 125c. I drew about 300 ish amps for the climb and a peak at 400 amps at the very top where the hill is steepest. I'd guess if i had more voltage the current would have been less. I was amazed really. 4 people in the car and a boot full of tools! Nothing i tried would stop that motor! Slow it down yes but stop it no chance and that was with only 36v on the shunt field. It can take 80.

Jack,

I got a kick out of your video. It reminded me of "tests" I have done.
I'm just glad no one has a camera when I do mine!
I have a question too. I watched several of you videos and I can't
tell if you have a gate drive circuit between the controller board
and your IGBT. Can you elaborate on that a bit?

Great Job!

Mark

[MPaulHolmes]

I'm pretty sure his gate drive circuit is just the Rev. 2C control board driver.

[jackbauer]

yeah its just straight to the gate of the igbt via a 10R resistor.

[MPaulHolmes]

Hey! I got the pwm working on the dsPIC! It's running 6 at the same time in complementary mode. In other words, 3 are running independent of each other, while the other 3 are the NOT of those 3. And dead time is built in! I can use that chip for synchronous rectification! It's perfect for it. Soon(ish) I'm going to order like 20 of those new 230amp 200v mosfets, and use them for freewheel mosfets and regular mosfets. I'm not sure about how much dead time to build in, but the default from the Application Note AN908 is 0.000002 seconds, so I'm using that right now. Derating it 1/2 allows for over 1000 amps. The voltage spikes at that current level should be around 25 volts, so it should still be fine at 144v nominal. I've also got Bob Woolery's 1000amp shunt in my hot little mits. Thanks, Bob! Another alternative is to split M- into 2, and just measure 1 of them with the LEM.

[squiggles]

Originally Posted by TheSGC

Kelly Controllers are not repairable. They coat them in this adhesive junk that doesn't come off, if that is what you are asking.

That adhesive junk is called conformal coating and most varieties can be removed with the appropriate cleaning substance.
I would not buy a commercially manufactured PCB for an industrial (vehicle) application that did not have some form of conformal coating.

You may think it is there just to anoy the crap out of you but it aint!

[Weisheimer]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

yeah its just straight to the gate of the igbt via a 10R resistor.

Jack,

OK, Thanks for the update.
I looked at the controller board and see that it does have a hefty
driver chip. Did you change R17, the 1k gate to ground on the controller?
I'm not suggesting that it needs changed, I'm only asking because I remember
you were looking at ways to reduce the ringing at shut off.
Perhaps it's time for me to order a board and mcu and experiment on it too!

Thanks

Mark