Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[mfox]

I was looking for AC motor , it is better than DC, but some serious power runs on 400V. It is hard to get 400 V from 9 tesla modules. It is to high voltage for me to play with.

[mfox]

I chose BMW e39 to convert because I love that model.
It won't be a race car , it will be my daily car , but I like electric beast unther the hood

[mfox]

Here is 5-th post so I can put link from diycar

BMW E "i5" conversion by Matija - DIY Electric Car Forums

And I allready made electric conversion on Opel Kadett, so Im not new in that.

Opel Kadett conversion by Matija - DIY Electric Car Forums

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by mfox

I was looking for AC motor , it is better than DC, but some serious power runs on 400V. It is hard to get 400 V from 9 tesla modules. It is to high voltage for me to play with.

You can run an AC motor on lower voltage. It just limits how much power you get. And the top speed I guess. But the low speed, off-the-line fun part is still the same. You don't need much voltage to push high amps at low RPM.

I am trying to get (at least one) 2011 Polaris Ranger EV working. It appears to be a PMAC motor, and it runs off a 48V DC Pack - no boost circuit.

When I was testing Paul's AC Controller design, I ran a Siemens 3 phase AC motor off a 128V DC pack. I managed to test the over-current on Paul's AC Controller design. I can't remember what the current was - I'd have to look it up - but the controller tripped ... and it has 3 x 600V 600A IGBTs.

[mfox]

Originally Posted by thingstodo

You can run an AC motor on lower voltage. It just limits how much power you get. And the top speed I guess. But the low speed, off-the-line fun part is still the same. You don't need much voltage to push high amps at low RPM.

I am trying to get (at least one) 2011 Polaris Ranger EV working. It appears to be a PMAC motor, and it runs off a 48V DC Pack - no boost circuit.

When I was testing Paul's AC Controller design, I ran a Siemens 3 phase AC motor off a 128V DC pack. I managed to test the over-current on Paul's AC Controller design. I can't remember what the current was - I'd have to look it up - but the controller tripped ... and it has 3 x 600V 600A IGBTs.

I know it works leaf motor on lower voltage , maybe half of power, maybe Ill be happy maybe not. .. other motors also i don't know how will work. .. and it is hard to get it. . I get warp 11 and i know i will be happy with resoult. 47kwh of battery will do de yob

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by mfox

I know it works leaf motor on lower voltage , maybe half of power, maybe Ill be happy maybe not. .. other motors also i don't know how will work. .. and it is hard to get it. . I get warp 11 and i know i will be happy with resoult. 47kwh of battery will do de yob

Are you cooling the Warp 11 somehow? I have read about some heating problems with highway-capable DC motors.

If I get my Mazda MX6 conversion running (also running a Warp 11) I plan to run in 4rth gear on the highway to keep the revs up (not what Warp motors recommends) and the current down so it heats up less. I have a cooling kit for it but I don't think pushing more air across the armature does a whole lot of cooling.

And ... YES, I know that I have too many projects on the go

EDIT: - I only have maybe 15 KWh of battery from a Fluenza pack. It likely started over 22 KW-h

[mfox]

Warp 11 is better to run at higher rpm to cool it self with his own fan. But i will put extra fan . It is not mounted yet. You can check the link of my conversion. I dont have money for lot of project , so all must work at first

[Piotrsko]

in a normal highway condition you will be only using a couple hundred amps, so the warp will be running fairly cool depending on ambient. my Kostov is hot to the touch running 450 ish watts/mile in the ranger, and in Summertime Reno i have never set off any of the high temp alarms i installed.

You want to gear for say 2500 rpm at highway speed, more than 3000 leads to premature brush failure.

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

in a normal highway condition you will be only using a couple hundred amps, so the warp will be running fairly cool depending on ambient.

I use over a hundred amps cruising at 15 mph in a golf cart. But it's at 48V. What voltage are you running?

my Kostov is hot to the touch running 450 ish watts/mile in the ranger, and in Summertime Reno i have never set off any of the high temp alarms i installed.

What are your high temps set for?

I have read Netgain motors' recommendation for the brush temperature, for their racers. George Hamstra is on record with a limit of 280C, after which the brush material loses structure and starts to .. peel?

I have not heard of a 'do not exceed' temperature for the motor itself ... unless you count the Class H insulation of 180C .. I think it's 180C

You want to gear for say 2500 rpm at highway speed, more than 3000 leads to premature brush failure.

What would premature brush failure be? 10,000 miles or 50,000 miles or 100,000 miles?

Higher rpm uses less amps at higher voltage .. and heat is proportional to the square of the current .. so if I can I will keep the revs higher and the current lower.

A set of helwig red-top split brushes is about $200, from EVTV, for the Warp 11. That is not cheap, but getting the brushes changed will cost more. HOWEVER .. it would be a PITA to get the motor out of my car for the rebuild if there is carbon dust to be removed instead of just replacing the brushes ... and if the carbon is built up over a short time the dust will create other problems, I think.

[mfox]

Hello ,
I'm able to get 4 IGBT-s FF300R12KE3 cheap from scrap yard taken from some industrial device.
Those are rated as 300A and 1200V . Those will produce too much heat at 1000A peak (or 1200) compared with 3x of CM600DY-12NF ???