Pizza Pan covers over 16" GM alloy OEM wheels
 

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This thread will document my materials and steps to add aluminum pizza pans my 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 16 inch stock wheels.

WARNING: I plan on drilling 5 very small holes directly through each wheel for #8-32 tapped screws. I make no assumption as to the suitability of doing the same to your own wheels. I know the size and thickness of my wheels, and I have ZERO saftey concerns with this process. Proceed at your own comfort level.

I will edit this post as I go. I will keep the Bill of Material (BOM) as straighforward as possible, using item numbers from the store where purchased from.

Why do this?
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post63787

How to do this?:
65+ Vehicle modifications for better fuel economy - EcoModder.com

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ers-23563.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...orn-14306.html

Reasons for my own variation:
I liked the concept of a semi-permanent stud that 'raylit20' came up with in his solution. However, I did not want the concern of perhaps having to take off the center plastic cap at some point for a mounting or balancing machine at a tire store. I would also not be confident in my own epoxying abilities to have just one point of failure.

So, 'NachttRitter' used the acorn caps of the lugnuts themselves, to have multiple attachement points. However, it seemed that I would have to purchase different lug nuts to try this one. Also, I tought it best to have the studs mounted on the wheels, so that when it is re-balanced, the weight is already there. Making the bolts be the part that comes off means they are not on the wheel during balancing.

Summary of my Plan:
1. Studs
Use Stainless Steel #8-32 Machine Screws.
Drill #29 pilot hole in each wheel at each spoke, in the groove that is already in the design.
Tap from the back side with an 8 - 32 tap.
Insert screw, with external lock washer, from behind with some blue Loctite.

2. Discs
Use 17" Aluminum Pizza pans (proper size for 16" wheels)
Drill 5 holes for rubber grommets, lined up with studs.
Drill a 6th hole to a larger grommet, to protect the air valve & extension
Insert grommets into the holes on pizza pan.
Use nylon retaining washers and SS fender washers on both sides, put disc onto studs.
Secure with hex lock nut using 11/32" socket (correct for #8 size nut).
Put 11/32" combo wrench in glove box so that they can be removed during a tire change.

BOM:
Most items came from Grainger (you need a business account with them, or may may find a retail source for similar item)

Slime brand metal Air Valve extensions - Auto Zone
#8-32 SS Pan Head Phillips Machine Screws (2" LONG) - Lowes
SS Lock washers- Lowes
17" Aluminum Pizza Pans - Grainger - Item # 20W867
Nylon Retaining Washers - Grainger - Item # 3XYX9
SS Fender Washers - Grainger - Item # 4ARR3
SS Lock nuts - Grainger - Item # 3PDG1
Weather resistant grommets for stud holes - Grainger - Item # 3MRP7
Weather resistant grommets for air valve holes - Grainger - Item # 3MRT1

Build Log:
11-10-2012 - Began acquiring material
11-13-2012 - Began this thread
11-14-2012 - Found pictures on internet to mark up location
11-15-2012 - Changed idea from thru hole w/ locknut to a tapped hole.
05-1402013 - Began Mocking up the stud assembly

I'll be following this project.

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I'd also like to mention my "bad" experience with valve stem extensions for others' interest.

I bought a set of extensions for the Firefly (Metro) when I glued flat plastic over the openings in the OEM wheel covers and needed a longer stem.

A day or 2 later I had four flat (or very low) tires!

When tightened down snugly, apparently the extensions put just enough pressure on the original valves to let a bit of air leak past. Backing the extensions off slightly fixed the problem.

Thanks you
 

I put the valve extensions on over the weekend. I will check my PSI when I get home from work... had not thought of that!

To avoid balancing issues you could use Dyna Beeds or Counteract balance beeds. Oriely's can get the counteract the next day usually, I buy a pound($30) and put 1/4 in each wheel when changing tires or thru the valve stem. Buy it once and reuse it. With TPS seems to take a little more 5-6 onces or leave a weight opposite the valve stem and can't install thru the valve stem.

subscribed

Pictures of stock 2004 Maxx LT wheels (like mine)
 

Marked and highlighted location of where holes will go:

The existing groove in the design, right at the 'highest' point of each spoke.

I will square up the existing rounded groove, to let the locknut sit flush against the wheel, and to 'capture' it so it does not spin.

Screw will insert from the back. Not sure on length of screw yet (1.5" or 2").

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-we...tion-holes.jpg

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-we...ions-holes.jpg

Thanks for this thread. I am following it as well.

Use the valve extension when you put air in the tire, then take it off. One extension serves all 4 wheels.

regards
Mech

Once hole have been drilled to the depth of the screws, why not tap the hole for the threads of the screws? That would eliminate the need to drill all the way through the wheel. Thoughts?

That was my thought too. to drill and tap the holes in the wheels instead of trying to use nuts and JB weld and everything else. Then just use some machine screws to attach the covers. I think it would be a much more elegant solution and with the covers off it would look competely stock. Also doing it this way should not have any significant effect on the wheel's balance.